starter motor question
 

So for the first time in 18 years the truck didnt start, I got dash lights but didnt turn over. I tapped the starter motor and it started instantly as always. Did my day start stop number of times then today sort of turned over then same as yesterday. Did the tap dance thing and nothing.

Thought okay ill take the starter out. Truck has headers so it becomes and adventure. Could hardly find it and taking them off wont happen as they have a mcgiver set up as the regular plates that bolt them up to the exhaust were not there. I was able to push hard enough on the trans lines to get the starter motor out.

Right away I find one green wire off but looking closelly I see no where that it came off. My guess is its a start lock out as the truck will start in gear. Is that possible if so not a concern now.

I see a crack in the solenoid and not sure if that was there or I might have done that. Being under it with not enough room headers in the way and the weight of the motor not the easiest.

Here is what I have before I cleaned it showing the wiring routing and that red wire was pulled pretty tight across the left terminal. Cleaned up then re routed it to make it a bit easier to work. Still got the nothing when I turned the key. Did not tap the solenoid and should have I guess. can someone explain the wiring to me. Really needed the truck today so stuck now.

How do you insert an image on this site? I clic on the box to put an image in and it shows a URL ???? most sites let you browse your folders, am I missing something.



thanks
'
w

Re: starter motor question
 

The green wire might be for a temperature sensor.

The large purple wire that powers the solenoid passes through a neutral safety switch on your steering column near the firewall inside the cab (assuming you have an automatic transmission). If you aren't getting any voltage on the purple wire when you try to start the engine, then maybe your neutral safety switch is gunked up inside, out of adjustment, or broken.

Re: starter motor question
 

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Re: starter motor question
 

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Re: starter motor question
 

thanks appreciate your replies, here is what I did

Took the starter motor out which is not easy with headers (five times now) but too hard to drop they exhaust for a few reasons. Ive run 12 volt to the motor and it works fine. I hooked up lamp cord to the solenoid and listened for a click.

Should the solenoid not jump forward with a wire to the "S" small terminal. I cant jumper the big to small terminal with a screwdriver as the headers are in the way, Hell I can barely even see the starter motor.

ILl go try the wire to the solenoid one more time to see if I can hear a clilc of the gear snapping in and out but dont think so and pretty sure with 12 volts to it should do that on its own.

Also its a 400 small block truck motor and someone did put an electronic distributor on it so no points

thanks

w

thanks on the diagram and the purple wire, it looks red but ancient eyes and 49 year old truck. Wish the battery wire and that one were longer, on stands in the driveway barely for me., My Lee Valley headlamp stopped working weeks weeks ago and cold today even though they said it was spring weeks ago, nuff fun for one day.

Re: starter motor question
 

if you jump it at the starter go from the battery terminal connection to purple wire/lug
that will energize the starter

Re: starter motor question
 

First things first. Let's to a systematic troubleshoot... Have you checked for voltage on the large red wire at the ignition switch?? It's fed direct from the battery so it's "hot" all the time.. If it's ok, while you're under the dash, probe the purple wire with a test light.. Turn the key to start and check for voltage there... If no voltage, you have a bad ignition switch.. If there is voltage on the purple wire, move on to the neutral safety switch (NSS)... Should have voltage on both terminals with the key in the start position.. If no voltage on either, check the wire between the NSS and ignition switch.. Could be a broken wire, loose connection, etc.. If voltage on only one terminal, NSS is either bad or out of adjustment... If you have voltage on both terminals, move on to the bulkhead (firewall) terminal block.. Check for voltage on that purple wire.. There is a connector for that wire on both sides of the firewall.. If all is OK there, don't depend on hearing a "click" as the solennoid energizes.. Hire a lefthanded monkey to connect your test light to the small terminal nearest the engine on the starter solenoid.. Should be voltage there when the key is in the start position. If voltage is there, the solenoid is bad.. If the solenoid does indeed pull in, the starter motor is bad..

That's an explanation of how the starting circuit works.. You should be able to locate the problem with this information...

Re: starter motor question
 

The couple of times I've used the wack on the starter routine have been because the starter brushes were worn out and/or they landed on a bad armature winding.

Re: starter motor question
 

The outboard terminal on the starter (I terminal in the diagram) only supplies voltage to the ignition during cranking. Voltage is feed from the starter to the ignition, on this wire, not the other way around. You can ignore it for your trouble shooting the starting issues. (No cranking). It does help get the motor started in cold weather or with a marginal battery. If you have changed from a points style ignition to an HEI you can ignore it as it serves no purpose. I always put the starter in a vise and bench check it with jumper cables before installation. Don't try to hold it! The starting torque is too high for that.
Rick

Re: starter motor question
 

If there's no click from the solenoid it's a solenoid or wiring issue. The solenoid mechanically engages the starter drive (Bendix) and switches the starter motor.
I'd read and maybe reformat Rusty's post 7 to get after the issue.
For me I'd want to understand the issue mechanically and electrically in order to get on top of it. Of course, pulling and replacing the starter assembly is a pain, so many simply replace it.
Don't listen to any Ford solenoid nonsense. Adding more parts to a system you don't understand isn't an improvement.
As always poor grounds are a frequent issue. Ground the big cable to the block. I good spot is the front 50's motor mount hole.

Re: starter motor question
 

I think its the solenoid but first time dealing with this.

Was told you can rotate the battery bolt in the solenoid on stuff from the 50's and 60's. I asked and was told that is accurate and it could be done up to the 80's. In a starter like this its a rectangle inside. You push it in then rotate it to a opposite surface. If that was the issue they go for a while on the new surface.

I drove the 2003 saturn today. I can stretch my leg out. I find it bizarre how folded up my knee is on the gas pedal in the pickup. These are great trucks but what were they thinking?. Ive shrunk to 5 10 1/2. Mel Brooks was right. What does a tall person do. If I keep shrinking maybe ill grow into it.

Its a joy driving down a nice country road when you are the only car on the road. Therapy on four wheels. I need another gear.

Re: starter motor question
 

so solenoid and brushes one almost worn totally through. Havent looked at the parts box but I always keep car parts. Tried to get the starter in in a few ways but up front bend or push on the trans line only thing that worked then set it on the lines and hook up the battery cable by feel and the S purple same thing. Did take off the plastic bell housing cover and that made it a bit easier to get the bolts in that hold the starter in, bit more room for hands. Barely able to squeeze hands in two other places for the nuts on the solenoid. Starts instant again. Thanks for all your info.

Re: starter motor question
 

Good to see that it's fixed!

I used to love to drive all over the place, both on my motorcycle and my cars. I get stupid up in the mountain roads, etc. Now, after 30+ years of commuting 90+ miles to work and back, I'm over it.