Cab floor replacement order
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Hello, I am to the point where I will be replacing my cab floor over the next few weeks. I have the cab braced and have removed the outer rockers. Also, I have drilled all of the spot welds at the rear cab wall. I still need to remove the spot welds on the footwell flange. I am wondering for anybody who has done this before did you pull the floor and align the new floor to the old A and B pillars or did you replace the lower A and B pillar sections first and then install the new floor? Below are the pieces I am needing help with replacing before or after floor install. Thanks.
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Re: Cab floor replacement order
my AD truck is gonna need all these parts replaced...so it got me thinking about this..
I think id get the rockers in place and make sure the doors work properly hopefully you have it x-braced so the doors still open and shut I think id do the floor 1st and then all the other panels.. but that's just me.. |
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Hi hump floor or regular?
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Yeah, then you will definitely want to track my thread. The stamp has some issues, the inner rockers do not drop down low enough, they are too high by about 3/8". Ill post the details when I get it buttoned up. I took measurements on 3 factory cabs and they all showed that the stamp does not drop the lip on that inner rocker far enough.
You will want to leave the pillars in place until after your floor is in (if you need to do any rust repair). Draw a line with a paint pen across the back of the cab right where your floor meets the cab wall. You can use that line to make sure your new floor is sitting at the proper level across the back. Use those bolt holes on the original front pillars and the firewall lip. Dont even attempt to do this with the outer rockers on. Brace it up really good and make sure you can still put doors on. If you look at my bracing, I would add a few braces up to the roof to keep that distance the same. The way the floor fits up onto the fire wall lip you have to put the front up into the lip first, then raise the back of the pan up into position. You will need two helpers, one for either side of the pan and for you to guide it into place. |
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Here’s a few pics of my 65 I did two years ago . Brace cab real good . A cart is nice to roll cab around on . Then I did kick panels , toe boards etc . Like others have said you will have to add 3/8” of an inch give or take to inner rocker area . I didn’t know this and fought with my rocker fitting and door/fender alignment what a waiste of time. My doors are very tight to rocker where I should of lowered rocker more and added that material in on inner floor . When I did the wife’s 61 a year later I seen a post where guys were adding material to that inner floor/rocker area and things line up nice. Live and learn :(
Have fun. I have a 72 that is going to get same treatment here soon least I’m getting quick at it now lol |
Re: Cab floor replacement order
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Had to swap a different roof skin on as well . Was a lot of work on that cab but sure Is a good feeling when your done all the metal work and putting it all back together
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Thanks Jrusher, the pictures do help. Once I get moving a little quicker I will post some progress here. Cutting and fitting toe board patch panels has slowed me down, and other house projects.
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Floor is out. The hardest part was getting the floor out with cab corners still intact and not cut any. The front firewall pieces keep the floor from being able to tilt down. I will be cutting those at an angle when putting my new floor in.
Passenger side: Attachment 2054511 Driver side: Attachment 2054512 Pile of .... Attachment 2054513 |
Re: Cab floor replacement order
I really wish you had X braced those door openings before you started cutting….hopefully itll work out for you
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gotcha...hanging the doors will be good before you weld it all up
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Great thread. Though I don't need a floor, I'm keeping an eye on this
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The cab floor is in, and the door opening measurements are the same as they were. That was my biggest worry. The bolt holes are close but will need some reaming. The front edge passenger side has the biggest gap and will require a cut and a pie shaped patch. Overall really happy with the fit. Will get the doors on and check final fit. The back of the cab is bolted tight to the existing brackets but the front of the floor is not attached at all. I put vertical stops and as you can see the new floor hits the stop.
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More pics.
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Nice Work! I loved the Tabco panels, probably the best fitting panels I’ve used.
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All I can suggest on the doors is put a jack under the door, they will wear you out fitting the rockers and getting the door gap right. The shocks were nicer than the stock ones, but I wouldn’t buy them again. Kinda pricey for just OK shock performance. I was expecting a lot more cushion out of them.
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That sounds like a great idea!
I had tough time, but I finally got them lined up right. I didn’t settle for anything except a nice click when they shut. |
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