Gen V Question?
 

I've installed an L83 in my 56 chevy. I'm still in mockup phase and now have it where I can drive it up and down the road. My question is about the heater core I'm installing. I'm putting in a vintage air heat/ac system and am wondering if I need a H pipe bypass before the shut off valve that vintage air supplies. I believe you need them on a LS ... Not sure about the LT.

Re: Gen V Question?
 

Here’s a couple of pictures of where it’s at so far

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I like the way that looks without the coils hanging out/off the valve covers. How'd you do that?

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That’s just what a stock L83 looks like. I’m probably going to buy some replacement covers that have Chevrolet script if they’re made.

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I have one of these, not installed yet

https://www.lojkits.com/products/ls-...r-bypass-block

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Alien....I like that block...very nice..much nicer than my plastic bypass valve that I have..
After looking at it closer I see it doesnt really block the flow, so there still needs to be a heat control valve..

Jason, I cant answer your question other than I would do use one regardless..just for piece of mind

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I agree Greg. I’m probably going to use one. Logic tells me there should be one before the valve.

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My god…$100. I hope for that price I’d have a horsepower increase :lol:

Re: Gen V Question?
 

They Say you "have" to have one on an LS swap, but from my experience doing them both ways, it makes no noticeable difference at all. I have two swaps with well over 100k miles on them, the swap, not just the engine, and they are basically only driven in the hot part of the year and they both have Vintage Air with heater shut offs that totally block the flow and have never even come close to overheating. You will want to have it on heat so the valve is open when first filling the cooling system, but after that it doesn't hurt anything at all.

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Jason this is the one I have on mine ,came from old air
Dont like the plastic, tried to find one in brass, but couldnt find one in the US

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Also saw this on vintage air,,looks like itd do the same thing as the $100 one, just not billet

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Thanks ken n Greg for the info. I like the looks of the vintage air h pipe. I was just going to make one out of stainless, but I’ll probably but that one.

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yes, the point of the return flow from the heater core flows onto the thermostat allowing it to do it thing. You could remove the bock off disc on the thermostat.. that was mentioned when i was researching it... didnt like it lol... i would rather drill holes in that disc to allow the coolant to leak past and flow onto the thermostat

you wanted billit, here ya go

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/09...g?v=1520893681

https://www.lojkits.com/products/ls-...r-bypass-block

pretty slick and clean, compact and allows return flow when the heater is blocked off.

In my 99 BMW 528i (ls1 5.7 swap) that has a OE heater valve that blocks flow of coolant unless heater is commanded on. It took a while to figure out why temperatures on the VDO aftermarket gauge would start to climb when a/c on or off at a red light during or at a fast food line. Turn the heater on, temperatures drop within seconds.... the temperature sender is drilled and tapped right on the water pump housing of the LS2 water pump (for reference)

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...90/41/woq7.jpg

i wound up making one ... turned out nice, a little bigger than lojkits but was cheap.

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/6...923/lrXBW7.jpg

sharkbite fittings fit real good for the 5/8 and 3/4 coolant hoses... I just brazed them together and painted it black.. almost not even noticeable in my swap.

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...924/Y7zBxD.jpg

clint

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Thank you again Clint! That is exactly what I needed to know. I’ll be heading to the hardware store after work for that same setup. I like it!

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no prob, the offset it just a little wider than the water pump fittings, but only by a little if there installed that close like i have.... that site i linked is about as compact as you can get! Super clean to boot.

to "machine down" the side T piece that gets soldered together, that you see smooth, I simply took a drill and a bolt with the head cut off that fit the ID nearly perfectly. I added tape to make it snug. chucked it up in the drill and spun it with a file resting on the ribs until it was the right size-ish.
clint

Re: Gen V Question?
 

no prob, the offset it just a little wider than the water pump fittings, but only by a little if there installed that close like i have.... that site i linked is about as compact as you can get! Super clean to boot.

clint