A/C factory or Aftermarket
 

Ok, wanted some opinions on keeping the factory A/c or going with aftermarket. My 68 has factory setup minus the condenser and dryer and hoses which would need to be purchased. I like the look of the factory air parts under the hood but don't want to nickel dime my self either so is it worth getting up and running or **** can and buy new? I live in Texas so would like to get up and running. Thanks Scott

Re: A/C factory or Aftermarket
 

Honestly id go with a vintage air setup, its what im putting in mine

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My thoughts thoughts exactly..

Re: A/C factory or Aftermarket
 

scotts72
The cost is similar unless you have close friends in the automotive a/c business who are willing to help you out.
You will be happiest with the aftermarket units and they will add value to your truck.

Re: A/C factory or Aftermarket
 

If the factory setup is mostly present, I would keep it and get it running again using R12. It will freeze you out of the cab on the hottest triple digit days.

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If you were starting from scratch I would go with Vintage Air (I'm installing their sure fit system now), but since you're only missing a few major components, stay stock as Leddzepp recomends.

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Do the research, cost out everything you need to get your system perfect. Then price out an after market kit. The answer will present its self. I did that a few years ago during my restoration and a VA kit was only a few hundred dollars more than restoring my factory air. Keep in mind that with an aftermarket kit all the components are new, not just repainted or some questionable reman.

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Original with R12. As mentioned above. You are only missing a few components. If everything else is present and functional, it seems simpler and less costly to stay original. Looks like you are near Dallas. Keep your eye on Craigslist for some R12. I got lucky a couple years ago in Phoenix and got a sealed 30# tank for $250.

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How many cans of R-12 will an original AC system take?

Re: A/C factory or Aftermarket
 

normally about 3 cans will fully charge the system

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If everything is working correctly and charged with R12 the original system will nearly blow snow out of the vents on a 100 degree day. The 70 I used to have would freeze me out if I left it on MAX.

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My 69 has a sticker from the factory that says 3.25#. On the label under the sticker, it says 3.75#. However, I've seen some 71-72s that just had the 3.75# stated on the label. I don't know if there was a change or if the sticker fell off. I think the 71-72s had one hose that was longer which could account for the difference.

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The manual says the factory system holds 3lbs 4oz of freon and 10oz of oil.

scott72 living in Texas I would fix/update your factory system. You are going to want the fresh air option. I think all the aftermarket kits only recirculate.

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Another thought ... if stock is important I would stay stock. Otherwise as mentioned compare the cost difference :metal:

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FWIW,
I have to agree with leddzep. On the hottest day, the factory set-up is by far the coldest compared to the aftermarket. Even when you call the aftermarket companies they tell you their set-ups are not as cold as the factory one. However, the aftermarkets use less power and are more eco friendly not using r-12. Temperature differences vary, but most r-12 systems when properly vacuumed down and charged, etc., will be 36-38 degrees, 134 is seems to be about 42 degrees. So not a lot of difference here but on that hot day with high humidity, you'll be glad you have it.

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Thanks gentlemen, I got a list together last night of what I need from LMC and now will try to find a good A/C person here in Dallas that does not want my first born. I have found here in the area that repair costs have just gone through the roof on anything older considered a classic.

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I bought the Haynes Techbook on Automotive Heating & Air Conditioning and now do all my own work, which is a LOT cheaper. A/C is not that complicated if you take the time to read and study it.

I would also keep the factory set-up. If it was a non A/C truck then the aftermarket is great. The GM A/C systems were always rated Number One, with Ford 2nd and Bosch
3rd.

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What about running the original retrofitted to 134A? Is it possible and efficient enough?

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Wow. R12 is that high now. I've been sitting on a case since '84. Never needed it yet. Glad I bought it at .49$ a can back then.

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For what it's worth. I installed a vintage air in my '70 but I didn't have anything to start with.

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I have had two trucks with Vintage Air. At no time did I ever get only 'chilled' air coming out of the vents. I never had cold air and so I was disappointed with Vintage Air. Yes, I had an air conditioning shop check out the systems but afterwards, they always barely chilled the air. In the hottest summer months, Vintage was essentially worthless.

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Unless there's something broken/leaking that you are not replacing, like the evaporator, no need to take it to a shop. That is, you should be able to bolt up all the new stuff with the seals lubed, oil in the compressor as per spec and pull a vacuum on it with simple tools. See below about the pump and A/C gauges. With compressed air, you can flush the evaporator and lines with a specific solvent to remove any debris that a previous compressor failure may have left behind.

If you do the bolt up and take it to a shop, they may find a simple mistake you made, like a clipped seal ( I know this! ) and since they're on it already, you'll pay the 300 bucks instead of the agreed on 89.95 or whatever for just the evacuate and charge.

The second time I rebuilt an A/C, I bought a set of gauges and a vacuum pump for less than 100 bucks and did all of it myself.

You're not too far, we could meet up and I'll loan you my pump and gauge set, but it's for R-134a and I don't have the adapters.

Hth,

-klb

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I do my A/C work myself, after I bought the Haynes Techbook Automotive Heating and Air Conditioning (#10425). Not that it is better than a factory service manual, but it does a good job of explaining the basics, that the service manual assumes you already know.

If I had a non A/C vehicle, I'd use Vintage Air, but replace the factory system...never. Have the POA rebuilt and calibrated for either R12 or 134A whichever you use. Don't use that silly POA bypass or replacement or whatever they call it, use a real POA. My system with 134A works just fine in south Florida. My 72 Cutlass also has a parallet flow condenser and with 134A I have 25 - 30 degree air from the vents. The cross flow does a better job of cooling the refrigerant, but unfortunately, they do not yet make one for our trucks. If you need a new compressor, and if it has sat for a while it may leak, spend extra money and buy a rebuilt from Classic Auto Air. Many of the lower cost suppliers are inferior, or they sit on their shelves too long and the seal dries out and leaks. And Classic is VERY GOOD at helping you. I have spent numerous times on the phone getting tech help, when I needed it.

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So you have a Classic Air system, but you would go with Vintage Air? Or are Classic Auto Air's systems made by Vintage Air?

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He said that if he had a non ac vehicle then he would use VA. He uses classic auto air( they are now going by original air group also) for his factory system. Vintage and classic are two different companies. I Should know as I use to work for caa