First rebuild ever, questions
A few months back I got a 76 c10 for $800 and I feel bad driving her without giving the love it needs. I want to rebuild the factory motor and I just wanted to get a feel for how much people spend on their 350 rebuilds, as well as where they get their parts and which are the most dependable. Any info helps and is much appreciated. (VIN Says camper loader so possible RV Cam??) Thanks.
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Re: First rebuild ever, questions
Depends on what you expect out of the engine. A complete stock rebuild can cost you up to $1500 depending on local shop's rates. Adding extras for extra horses can run go up a lot higher.
I have done partial rebuilds (rings, heads, crank and piston bearings for as little as $300-$400 dollars and a complete stock rebuilds that went $800+ abut that was about 10 years ago. I try to buy local for some parts like starters, master cylinders, alternators and similar so I can exchange if defective or for warranty purposes. |
Re: First rebuild ever, questions
Have you run a compression test? How do you know it needs a rebuild?
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Re: First rebuild ever, questions
Before getting to far you need to determine exactly what your motor is. It could be the stock one or one that was transplanted into your truck already. You need the casting number and the suffix code off the block to find that out.
Casting number info here. https://www.mortec.com/ Suffix codes here. http://www.nastyz28.com/decode.html Once you get that info then you can plan your motor. Then if all turns out good you’ll need to tear it down enough to measure the piston bores. A motor that’s been already bored .060 already and needs to be bored more might not be useable. You’d need to find another block. A little research is time and money well spent! |
Re: First rebuild ever, questions
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Re: First rebuild ever, questions
Thanks geezer, I’ll do that as soon as I get home.
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Re: First rebuild ever, questions
What tools do you have? A full rebuild will need more then the basic socket set. Factor that into your costs. Buying tools as you discover you need them is a good way to stock your shop. You just need to be prepared for the extra dollars needed.
If by bad gaskets you are referring to the valve covers leaking, they do that after a few years even if the engine internals are in great shape. Replacing valve cover gaskets does make for a good first project. And you can see how much or little goo is inside. And it lets you check the head casting numbers as well. What does the SPID in the glovebox list for motor? No guarantee that is what is in it now but at least you will know what it started with. |
Re: First rebuild ever, questions
I just did a 350 build a few months ago. All I had was a 4 bolt main block.
Everything else was bought new. Rotating assembly, all sheet metal, bolts, hoses, heads, push rods, cam, ECT. I had 3500 in mine. My machinist e work was 350 bucks, that was boring .040 over and decking the block to zero deck. I put everything together at home. I cost a exrta 400 to have it broke in on a dyno. That was awesome, and worth every penny. |
Re: First rebuild ever, questions
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I ordered the wrong headers the first to e and they exchanged them with not questions and paid the return shipping. |
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