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with a c-notch?

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Yes sir

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Very cool. Now to get some S#i1 Rolling!
Thank you sir!

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FYI Rob is finishing his move. There new phone number is on his site or I can also order it.

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Does anyone have a Photo of the rear rail kit w/ air bagged fat bar set up?

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I would like to see this as well.

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3 link update would be cool

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3-Link Update.
3-link kits are now in production and available for the following trucks.
55-59, 63-72, 73-87. They can be purchased in partial or complete kits. Complete kit pricing is the same as our FatBar 4-bar. $1150. Some measuring and drilling is required, also welding. We can also offer a Moser 9" with the mounts welded for $1245. (housing, axles, bearings, studs and brackets) If you are using a bolt in C-notch, you may need to modify (grind to fit) the upper coil-over (or bag) and panhard mount brackets.

We have been testing these on Wes Drelleshack's Apache, and on a local '78 SWB for over a year. No problems, no failures, great handling and control, smooth ride. If Wes can't hurt it, it can't be hurt.

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The crossmember shown above is for 55-59's, and mild dropped 63-87. LOW 63-87 will have the drive shaft kick on the top of the crossmember, and the 3-link mounting points are raised.

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Rob, I'm building a '66 short bed and I'm interested in a three link kit. The frame rails under the cab are 5" off the ground at ride height (truck is on air). I'm thinking that I'll need to Z the frame after the cab to raise the rear frame rails up enough so the crossmember will be high enough to get the links at the correct angle at ride height? Or will the Low version have the correct link angles with a 5" ride height without Z'ing the frame? I want to be able to tow with the truck so I want a full frame rail height, so I'm already planning to either Z the frame or do a step notch. The links look to be a good bit shorter than the original trailing arms, so I think there's room for a Z behind the cab, but before your crossmember? I'm interested in a kit either way, just wanting to make sure I order the correct version so the link angles are correct at ride height.

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What is the benefit to the three link over a 4 link (or wishbone style 3 link)? I read your make it handle thread (a few times) but don't remember seeing this in there.

Edit: I remember reading some of Ron Sutton's articles about positioning the upper (3rd) link on the passenger side to help counteract the torque and push the car/truck straighter. Any other benefits?

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Three links have less bind than a 4 link. The one small disadvantage (not that big of a deal to me) is that you have to run a panhard bar or watts link to control lateral axle movement while the suspension is cycling. Ideally, the longer the panhard, the better. With a triangulated 4 link, a panhard or watts link is not needed as the angled links control the lateral axle movement.

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Is no limit really busy with a SEMA build? I've tried emailing twice with no reply. I don't have time during the day to call, and when I do, they are already closed. Is there a dealer for them I could work with as well?

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http://www.smittyscustomauto.com/ is a dealer

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Are the red spring mounts/ brackets still available???

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Hey Rob,

Do you have any pictures of the LOW 63-87 3-link kit mounted in a 67-72? Where dose the 3rd link connect to a stock GM 12 bolt?

Thanks

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No Limit 3-links must have the upper mount welded to the housing. - So, 12 bolts are a no go.

Yes, I have seen the kits with plates bolted through the rear cover with longer bolts and two gaskets. I have also seen cracked housings, broken bolts and destroyed gear sets. Remember that ALL of the 'pull' load from a launch, and ALL of the 'push' load from a hard brake (sometimes more violent than the launch) go through the top bar. We expect that No Limit customers will drive their trucks out to the edge more than once, and we want them to survive the test.