The 5.3 Blazer build
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Howdy, names Justin from Kansas. Im in the middle of a 1988 Blazer 2wd 2dr 5.3 swap. I have taken the truck down to the frame, and now building up from there!
Thought Id start another build thread here. You guys have been very welcoming to me and my questions. Thanks! So here it go's! Attachment 537438 Attachment 537439 Attachment 537440 Attachment 537441 Attachment 537442 Justin |
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Attachment 537444 My stand alone harness I did myself with the help from you guys!
Attachment 537445 My shop Attachment 537446 the new chassis harness. |
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Lookin good, I may be getting a S-10 with a slightly built 5.3L here pretty soon.
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Nice work so far.
What are you using for a water pump? I thought the water pump on the truck engines had clearance problems with the LS1 intake. |
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Here is a picture of the idler relocation mod. Also a longer belt was needed. I think something around 102 inches. Took me 3 attempts to get the right belt!:lol: Attachment 537529 Attachment 537530:metal: Justin Hope this answers your questions! I also had to add washers behind the pulley and use all thread bolt and locker nut! |
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Sweet. I'm sure there are a lot of guys that would like to know about the water pump. Is it cheaper the the Ls1 water pump? Oh I like the wiring harness laid out on the cutting board too. Kinda appropriate.
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Re: The 5.3 Blazer build
Glad to see you have a build thread here! That LS1 intake looks right at home there! :lol:
GM changed the waterpump on the trucks, so the 07 and up make a great replacement for anyone wanting to put an LS1 or LS6 intake on the Vortecs. It eliminates the clearance issue with the throttle body, especially on the electric ones. And you don't have any alignment problems with the new truck pump also. |
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Looks like a fun build
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The water pump a little pricey but still cheaper than vette or F-body FEED! The harness work was the most time consuming. I bought the relay box from current and the Injector plugs from EFI Connection along with other plugs and connectors. Really wasn't that bad doing all the work, just had to take my time! Still saved me about $600 bucks doing it myself. Just moving along with the Chassis harness now. I found a lovely family of mice in my dash! They ate up almost all the insulation on the wires, and started on the hard plastic! I live in the country, and that's Life!! Just hate the smell of mouse piss! :devil: Sunday I ripped what was left of the old wiring, and should have the new wiring in this week! The only thing I need is parts blazer, manly the dash and hard plastics. I missed one this weekend, 89' 4wd 2dr blown engine for $200 bones! Clean old truck, inside was spot less! :dum: Another Question Bob. Who did your computer tuning? I'm thinking Fast Chip might do mine. But thought I'd ask you and others who else? Thanks again! Justin |
Re: The 5.3 Blazer build
Jesse at wait4meperformance.com has done all mine for several years now. I think it is $75 to reprogram your PCM, and about $175 (don't remember for sure) if you don't have a core and buy one programmed from him. To rework the harness and reprogram the PCM is $360.
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Re: The 5.3 Blazer build
Woo! That's cheap! Is that just for the vats and Emission? Or dose that include add on like my LS1 intake- injectors, headers and a aftermarket tachometer? That is my only question. I haven't decided on a cam yet. But would like to have a bump stick in it! The transmission for now is a Fresh built TH-350" left over from my Nova that sold last year that was never put to use", but I plan on a 4l60E later.
Any help would be great! Thanks Justin |
Re: The 5.3 Blazer build
That is for whatever you need reflashed in it. Oh, and free re-tunes for life, so later when you decide to do a cam, he will just need the cam specs and cam reflash it again accordingly. The PCM's tach output works with aftermarket tach's when they are set to the 4 cyl position.
Best bet is to call and talk directly to Jesse. They are a little slow at answering emails sometimes, but he will talk your ear off on the phone! |
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Justin |
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I hope I had the prices right, it's been while since I had just the PCM done.
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Justin BTW How did you rigg up oil sending unit? Pipe thread tap the drivers side oil cooler adapter? |
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http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1252463287 |
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Thanks Bro!
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Hey Bob I have question! When you sold me that intake. I didn't notice it at first, Its missing the threaded inserts for the throttle bracket. You would have them laying around somewhere or know the PIN number for the Sealership? I bought a billet Lokar Ls1 cable mount and can't bolt it on!;)
Attachment 539592 Any help would be great! Thanks Justin |
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Ya know, I never noticed. I have a drive by wire throttle body, so I guess I never had a reason to look. I shipped it to you in the same box I got it in, so I know they aren't here. if all else fails at a dealer, there are a variety of threaded inserts available that you can install. Most work like a pop rivet, and swell up as you tighten the bolt. I used them all the time when I was building conversion vans. I even used some on Fred to attach the bracket I made for the MAF to the radiator support.
Some examples: http://www.fastener-world.com.tw/upl...item/350-2.jpg |
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When in doubt, ask Bob! Thanks buddy!
Are those easy to find? Where else besides the Dealer? Thanks Justin |
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Believe it or not, our ACE Hardware has them. I think NAPA and CarQuest does too. If you have a fastener supply place close by, like Fastenal, they will definitely have them.
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Yeah, I just called Fastenal here down the street. Just need to figure out what thread size and count now! You wouldn't know the bolt size by chance? Thanks again for the help!
I'm really ready to get this show started! Reaching almost a year since I started this project. Budget hasn't went to high as of yet. 70% finished, and still under $2.500.00! Still got the important stuff left yet! |
Re: The 5.3 Blazer build
Eeks, I really wouldn't know for sure. But if I had to guess, I would say the bolt size was around 4mm, maybe 5mm. Might be easiest to make that SAE, it might be easier to get an insert for SAE threads, #10 or 1/4". If you can, measure the I.D. of the hole and see what they have that will fit in there.
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