Another rust removing question
 

So many videos on YouTube with people using large tote tubs and similar to soak their rusty parts in. Some use the ones suspended in the solution powered by batteries, some use solutions purchased at the home improvement stores that they just soak in. I bought some gallon jugs of vinegar at the dollar store and dumped a bunch of nuts and bolts in. Just shook it up now and then. Worked great for the little stuff.

Does anyone here have a serious set up of one kind or another going at home? Id love to see it if you do. I have what I think could be useful parts that need a good soaking of some sort. What system works the quickest?

Now that spring is just around the corner id like to get something going outside my shop in a couple of totes.

Re: Another rust removing question
 

How big of parts are we talking here? Home Depot sells "masonry tubs" or something like that. They're big, durable, and CHEAP. I usually use that for larger parts, but if you're thinking about something like a body panel I can't help you with that.

The bins I use are $6 for the one thats 28"x20" and $13 for 2'x3'. They're both about 8" deep, so you can fit most anything in there. I soaked my lower control arms in there to get the gunk off of them before I did anything else.

Links below:
Small
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Plasgad-...102C/205451585

Big
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Plasgad-...101C/205451550

Re: Another rust removing question
 

No big body parts, things like you are talking about. Those are nice looking tubs. I have a bunch of heavy duty totes Im not using anymore.

Love to see some systems in actual use that board members have.

Re: Another rust removing question
 

I did my core support in a kiddie pool using electrolysis. Worked great.

Re: Another rust removing question
 

Another vote for electrolysis...the parts can't get too big. I did the bedsides to my fleet after slpitting the spot welds. It took a couple weeks using a qualtiy battery charger.

Re: Another rust removing question
 

I use reverse electrolysis to clean rust off of antique lanterns. It involves submersing the lantern in a solution of water and something to make it conduct better (washing soda), and then applying a low voltage to setup using a battery charger.

In my picture below you can see that I line the outer edge of the bucket with rebar. These are sacrificial and will rust up during the process. Connect the positive (+) lead to the rebar, and the negative (-) to the part to have rust removed. The lantern "after" picture below took about a week in the tank. That lantern is about 120 years old.

The process works very well. Reverse the leads if you want to make a new part look old.

I saw one guy make a large tank to de-rust a frame.

Re: Another rust removing question
 

That's impressive! Good job, Rg

Re: Another rust removing question
 

Ok there ya go. Someone that uses this a lot for his hobby. Have you tried other methods to see if you liked those any better?

Re: Another rust removing question
 

I like it.

Re: Another rust removing question
 

I like the electrolysis method over chemical dips
No toxic to get rid of
I think I used borax (check goggle for concentration)
And a 24 v charger..power supply
Good luck

Re: Another rust removing question
 

I made a temporary tank out of some scrap plywood and some heavy guage plastic to dip a pair of fenders 10-15 years ago. The bigger the part the more power you need or it takes forever.

Re: Another rust removing question
 

When I first started to collect lanterns I tried a couple of methods I read about on the internet, including molasses. None of those methods take the rust off like reverse electrolysis.

I use swimming pool pH increaser for the sodium carbonate/washing soda. One tablespoon per gallon has been working for me.

The process creates hydrogen gas, so make sure you have good ventilation. I have read that using stainless instead of rebar creates poisonous gasses.

I have used graphite/carbon plates instead of rebar with good results. The plates don't rust like rebar so the water solution stays pretty clean and can go a long time without having to be changed.

Re: Another rust removing question
 

There is a cat in Australia on Youtube using huge vats of molasses to remove rust from metal parts. It's main downfall, is that it takes a very long time. But it's effective.

Gary

Re: Another rust removing question
 

I started using Eastwood Rust Dissolver. I started with just a gallon to test it out. I soaked a very rusty brake bracket over night. The next day, I took it out and rinsed with just water. It looked like it was brand new. What's nice about it is it's water soluble and no toxic fumes. The bad part is that it's not cheap.

Re: Another rust removing question
 

I use the electrolysis method on most parts and I use the same method to etch blades . Axe I made last week . But used salt and water and you reverse the polarity positive to blade negative to the sacraficiat rod causing the blade to etch.

Re: Another rust removing question
 

Stainless is iron, chromium and nickel. I suspect that the person telling you this had used some galvanized iron, which could present a problem from zinc content, if it bubbled out as zinc hydride. I know people who have died from zinc fumes from either burning the metal off to weld it, or not bothering to burn it off first. I realize that welding is different from an electrolytic bath, but the threat could still be there.

Re: Another rust removing question
 

I've used molasses in 5 gallon buckets to giant garbage cans. It's cheap but not fast. I used to get it from the feed store in 5 gallon jugs. I did some steel wheels as well as smaller stuff this way.
I've also used phosphoric acid (concrete etch or cleaner) from the home store diluted for smaller stuff. Somewhat strong it works overnight.

Re: Another rust removing question
 

Post up them pics! Killing Rust is THE thing to do!

Re: Another rust removing question
 

I think I'm going to go ahead and give this a shot, reverse electrolysis. What is recommended for a battery charger? Can I use one from Harbor Freight (Ill wipe it down for the Corona virus)? I don't have a problem spending more money on a better version as long as its going to do the job just that much better.

I have a couple of sets of clutch/brake pedals that are kinda gnarly looking. They would be a great test.

Re: Another rust removing question
 

Interesting stuff, I was looking for ways to clean small items without sand blasting.

Re: Another rust removing question
 

Any charger will work up to a point. Don't try using a battery tender, but an actual charger. The biggest concern is how long it takes. I made a tank big enough to do bedsides (one at a time) and used, what I would call a heavy duty farm charger...(Schumacher 200/40/6A Farm & Ranch Battery Charger) and it took a couple weeks to get the job done set on the highest 12 volt charge setting (not the engine start setting - that would not be good I don't think). It took that long due to the size of the parts and the amount of water involved. I have used it for smaller containers and it cuts the time down considerably.

For 5 gallon bucket jobs...a more affordable charger would work just fine.

Re: Another rust removing question
 

Thinking about doing this. Would anyone know if you need more amps or higher voltages for doing this?

Re: Another rust removing question
 

I know someone doing knives, I have been over at his shop from time to time. Looking forward to making a knife this weekend out of bearing races, 52100, high chromium content.

How does this compare instead of using ferric chloride? I know the ferric chloride is fairly quick, but unknown how the durability compares.:5150:

Re: Another rust removing question
 

I went to Home Depot and purchased a large 55 gallon storage tub to use as a rust removal container that has a lid. Then I ordered a small container of Oaxlic acid from Amazon. Here is the link on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/FDC-Ethanedio.../dp/B01IPL7MZ6

I added half a cup of the acid to the water I put in the tub and stirred it up until it dissolved. I put in a few parts like the bench seat mounting brackets that bolt to the bottom of the frame and bolt the seat to the floor. I left them in there for a couple of days and when I took them out the rust was all gone. I read about this technique where bicycle collectors were buying old bikes that were completely rusted and taking the bike apart and using Oaxlic acid. It was amazing how all the rust went away and the paint and stickers on the bike were still there.

Re: Another rust removing question
 

Here's one of the better write-ups on removing rust with elecrolysis...

http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp

Simple and to the point with some added detail.