Exhaust routing with a Dropmember
I have a 63 with PB Extreme 3 front/ rear
Dropmembers. I'm running a sm blk with stock manifolds and it's time for the exhaust. Looking for pics from forum members who have an exhaust done or planning one. I'd like to run it along side the outer frame rails,but not sure if there is room or even possible. ( route from exhaust mani to the rear of front tire where the frame kicks up) Looking to use 2" pipes. Any pics and or advice would be appreciated. TIA... |
Re: Exhaust routing with a Dropmember
Quote:
Routing height was kept the same as if it were ran within the rails (nothing was below the bottom of the rail). You'll want to be aware/mindful of rear wheel size/back-space so the pipes have enough room from the tires. I'd start by clamping some 2"x6" lengths of .250" steel to the bottom off the frame from just in front of & just behind the cab mounts. Tape some 1/2" material down on those to set the 'height' of the tubing routed to the rear. Determine how/where you want your hangers to support the tubing there. Then it's a matter of snaking the tubing under the kick-up in front to meet the tubing coming out of the manifolds & following the rear frame kick-up to clear the axle tubes. |
Re: Exhaust routing with a Dropmember
Quote:
|
Re: Exhaust routing with a Dropmember
What Scoti suggested is basically how I just did mine on the IH.. I clamped angle iron on frame rails and laid a 1x on top to set my pipe height 3/4" above the bottom of the frame rail..laid my long straight sections of pipe on that and clamped it down, then fanangled my bends to connect point A to B..
It's hard to visualize yours without seeing it.. Are you building this yourself, or letting a muffler shop do it? |
Re: Exhaust routing with a Dropmember
Quote:
I figure it's only 2" pipe so a 90 should work and still have room at the front shock and tire. |
Re: Exhaust routing with a Dropmember
Quote:
Is your welder dead or are you having issues laying consistent beads? If it's still able to pulse/tack, route the set-up & tack the pieces together. Then take it to the muffler shop & let them weld it up. If the welder is completely dead, you can build small sections to get the routing you need using some strong masking tape to hold the 45°/90° bends together. Take them to the muffler shop & get them tacked. Go back to the truck & verify things are still good. Make corrections as needed. Repeat the effort section by section & it can be built. This is how I've built the exhaust set-ups I've done. Once the layout is all tacked together, it can be finished welded back @ the muffler shop. |
Re: Exhaust routing with a Dropmember
Quote:
I tried going to different shops a few years ago when I did another system...most don't wanna take the time to help. I appreciate your response. Hopefully someone has pics so I can show these shops...yes it can be done! |
Re: Exhaust routing with a Dropmember
Not a Dropmember set-up but similar routing like my buddy did on his...
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...0&postcount=17 Is there a specific reason you don't want it between the rails under the body? PB's set-ups have provisions for exhaust routing so I'm curious why one wouldn't take advantage of the feature. |
Re: Exhaust routing with a Dropmember
Some decent images I found online of board member vin63 trucks exhaust...
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=598305 Another w/a Dropmember... https://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vbo...d.php?t=540977 |
Re: Exhaust routing with a Dropmember
Quote:
|
Re: Exhaust routing with a Dropmember
Quote:
|
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:13 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 1997-2022 67-72chevytrucks.com