Re: My '67 Fleetside C10 renew
 

Nice Dude ! glad you went first, hahaha !:smoke:

Re: My '67 Fleetside C10 renew
 

These are gonna suck dude, I can tell ya. There's a bunch of rivets to stake down and none of them are gonna be easy to back up with anything solid. I'm hoping that the jiffy tool is at least half-a$$ decent. That wrap around rubber goes into a "channel" but its keyed (for the lack of a better term). I tried to stuff the old crap back in for a better photo of the tear down and gave up. I can't imagine how fun its going to be to cram the new tight stuff in there! I got those parts cleaned, sanded and primered but not painted. I still don't have the repair kit but I'm hoping I'll see Big Brown early next week! Goal is still to get that cab in epoxy tomorrow! Stay tuned....

Re: My '67 Fleetside C10 renew
 

Lots of soapy water is the only thing I remember, about getting those in the channel. Hope everything else is goin good ! I'm tuned.lol
you can never have to much info on these vent windows.

Re: My '67 Fleetside C10 renew
 

Trying to post a video.
http://youtu.be/mZrnWOJfP5c

Re: My '67 Fleetside C10 renew
 

Yikes! That guy didn't seem all that happy with his results! My rubber is made by Precision. I'm going to browse their sight and see if they have any infor. I wish he said in there what brand he was using. Maybe there is a difference???? The two spots he recommending using regular old pop rivets are the two I didn't take out, but I think we may be able to do that up at the top. I dont think they'd work well in the channel tho.

Re: My '67 Fleetside C10 renew
 

Weekend goal accomplished!! The expoxy shows a little more body work I'll need to do though. that front corner on the cab roof is like the end of an egg! There was some old damage there that somebody used a slide hammer to pull out and pucky. I tore all that old crap out and welded up the million little holes and re-puckied. My block did not make that very "egg shape" looking. Otherwise it looks KILLER! I thought the cab was all ready to go, but I spent at least thee hours detailing before I shot the spray glue. Shooting the whole thing inside and out in one shot was a PITA too. Glad I'll finish it in stages.

Re: My '67 Fleetside C10 renew
 

Yeah, the main thing I liked was the thick metal used as a backer that fit in the channel.
Nice Job on the primer man ! looks good !:chevy::chevy::chevy::chevy:

Re: My '67 Fleetside C10 renew
 

Ha, how 'bout that sticky stuff! Nasty to put on, but it is soo worth it when you get done! Wait till today, when you can handle it! All the work looks pretty good, it'll surprise you when you get the primer on it! "I thought it was straight!" Scrub that dude down with 150 and blast it with 2 good coats of slick sand. Block with 150, and you'll be shocked at the lumps and bumps that show up. I'd also recommend the 3M Rub on guide coat. Kind of a powder that goes on with a pad, and doesnt clog your paper and really shows stuff well. A little expensive but worth it!

Re: My '67 Fleetside C10 renew
 

Thanks John! Same here on the flat-bar anvil. That looked way easier than putting a punch in a vise and trying to balance that all.

Thanks for the tips Elco! That corner is sooo flat I'll need another bit of filler first! Can't believe I couldn't see that before the primer. So you think 150 is fine enough to lay basecoat on? May also need a little advice on polishing. I shot my vent window frames with that same black and got the same orange-peel results :( I'm going to pick up some reducer today, sand them flat again and see what happens. If I can't get it to lay flat out of the gun, how would I go about sanding them flat and bringing them back? It's a reduced gloss, or satin finish.

Re: My '67 Fleetside C10 renew
 

Looking very good!
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Re: My '67 Fleetside C10 renew
 

No no no! Slick Sand is a filler primer. Mud/metal always looks great in primer after 80 block in epoxy. Scuff the epoxy well and completely, edge to edge, with 150. Then lay 2 coats slick sand on. Then block that with 150. You'll be shocked at what the guide coat shows you. Use a long dura block with a nice straight 2x4 taped to the back of it on the doors and bedsides, face of tailgate and hood. Repair as necessary. Recoat with SS and reguide. Block again With 240. If no breakout, wet sand with 400, always on a block. If lots a breakthrus, tap tap and shoot SS AGAIN. Then wet with 400 and shoot 2 coats bc 3 coats clear. Enjoy the adulation of all the ladies in the tri county area. If orange is a problem, a little more reducer and a little more air and a bit further away.
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Re: My '67 Fleetside C10 renew
 

Now the fun begins and the race with the weather is on!!

Re: My '67 Fleetside C10 renew
 

Also, I don't think you can polish satin , but I dunno.
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Re: My '67 Fleetside C10 renew
 

Thanks again! I may be too chicken $hit for the guide coat! I thought I was about DONE with the body work. Will I need to touch it between BC and the CC? Please say no....

Re: My '67 Fleetside C10 renew
 

No more body work between base and clear.

Re: My '67 Fleetside C10 renew
 

But do I have to scuff it?

Re: My '67 Fleetside C10 renew
 

Noop, I'll make a bigger post later. Keep shooting.
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Re: My '67 Fleetside C10 renew
 

That'd be awesome! No shootin tonight tho. Monday Night Football ya know. My goal for tomorrow will be seam sealer on the cab. Any tips there? I'll tape the roof top along the drip rail. On places like the rockers can I just smoosh it with the finger and clean up? Lacquer thinner? Can I sand that stuff off?
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Re: My '67 Fleetside C10 renew
 

Looking good!
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Re: My '67 Fleetside C10 renew
 

Looking good. What flavor of seam sealer you going to use?

Re: My '67 Fleetside C10 renew
 

Here's a pic for you to keep in mind-
Attachment 999163
Here's how I shoot base/clear. Lay your stuff out/hang it up, leaving plenty of room to walk around, this ain't primer, we don't want any dings here. Blow it all off, and wet the floor. Open a tack rag and spread it open and hang it up to dry out a bit. Crack a beer. Seriously. Put on your gloves.(you got some surgical gloves at the parts house, right? You WANT gloves.) Sip it while you wipe down with a brand compatible wax and grease remover. Strain your materials into the gun. (Ask for Sticks and strainers at the paint store, they're usually complimentary.) Wax and grease again, then tack down. Half the beer should be gone. Shoot your first coat of base. WALK AWAY (completely out of the shop) AND DRINK THE REST OF THE BEER, at the normal redneck rate, about 5-10 min. Come back in and look over your stuff. You should have a fairly good covering medium coat on. Check your edges, look for runs and dirt. If you have runs or big dirt, wet sand them out now with 600 and wipe down just the affected area lightly (lightly!) with wax and grease and tack off. Then tack the whole thing. Most small dirt and dust will go with the tack rag. Ok, if all is well, shoot your second coat, being real careful to get good coverage, and get your edges covered. Mind your edges and be sure to go all the way, ALL the way to the bottom of the body. Walk away and drink another half beer. Re-inspect. If all is well, Mix clear. If not, wet sand it out, clean up and re-base that part. When you're finally good, Load up clear gun. Tack off whole job and shoot. Now, on the first round, you just want a light to medium coat, a tack or scratch coat if you will. Very liberally get your edges. Walk away and drink half a beer. Come back and inspect. Bugs and big dirt can be snagged out with the sticky side of some masking tape, just barely touch the thing you want without touching the part. Runs can be handled the same way. Lay some 1/2 inch tape directly over the center of the run and set it lightly down on it (kiss it) and pop it right back off. Note:This only works when the clear is very wet and freshly shot. No touchie otherwise! If all is well, shoot coat two. Go for a nice, uniform coat this time. Mind your edges and be sure to go all the way, ALL the way to the bottom of the body. Walk away and drink half a beer, slowly. Come back and inspect. No touchie from here on in. Shoot coat # 3. Drink the rest of the sixer while cleaning guns and toasting you success. Enjoy your shiny paint job!:metal::smoke:

Re: My '67 Fleetside C10 renew
 

Seam sealer-use the good stuff from the paint store. I used LORD Fusor 800 EZ, and it is. Tape off the roof, and put a good bead in the groove, just like a bathroom. Put on your glove and dip into some lacquer thinner and smooth 'er out. Looks great when done.

Re: My '67 Fleetside C10 renew
 

Oh, don't forget to have Frampton's "Do you feel like I do?" and some ZZ top Blasting on the shop stereo while painting. This is crucial.

Re: My '67 Fleetside C10 renew
 

I really appreciate you taking the time to write that up!

:chevy::chevy::chevy::chevy::chevy:

I'll have to check and see what seam sealer I got??? At Napa I just asked for some seam sealer that'll go in my standard caulking gun. It's tan in color I know.

Can I scuff that epoxy with the red scotch brite or should I use the P150?

Why do you use a different gun for clear? Is it a different style of gun or are you just concerned with contamination?

I did pick up a Pioneer tuner last week and it ROCKS! :metal:

Re: My '67 Fleetside C10 renew
 

You should-I'm a shi##y typist! Ha! My seam stuff is tan, goes on buttery, kinda like really smooth brownie batter. Regular caulk gun. If you're gonna prime again, go 150, give it some tooth. If not, red scotchbrite. I use the same gun, base and clear, a Sharpe Finex. The tip is A little big for base, a little small for clear. Pros will have multiples for speed. I've seen six guns loaded at a time, swappin' 'em out. A pro clear gun will also have all the air and fluid passages hogged out in it, running like a 2.0 tip. It's like welding Aluminum, you better be movin' when you pull that trigger, and haul azz once you're flowin'! I'm a cheap azz, I just clean mine good and blast away. I shot 90% of Boppa's with it. Tony let me use his old Iwata LPH 400, and it was niiiice. It's hard to paint with a chubby, but I persevered! BTW, if Momma ain't out in the shop gripin' about the noise, you need a bigger stereo, Hoss. Just some MO redneck guidelines.