Distributor orientation
 

The plug wire with the arrow goes to my #1 plug. It’s basically at 7 o’clock. If I want to move it to 5 o”clock is it as simple as pulling the distributor and re-inserting it in the new orientation?
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Re: Distributor orientation
 

Yes and no. The distributor can be reindexed but you have to have the tang on the oil pump drive line up as the distributor goes in. Basically you would want to turn the engine to TDC with the rotor pointing at #1 plug wire. Then pull the distributor out. Turn the distributor to where you want #1 to be and turn the oil pump drive the same amount. If the stars align then it will go back in and you can rewire it from there. If you have it at TDC with rotor pointing at #1 and don't turn the engine, wherever the rotor points when you turn the distributor and get it back in AND seated is now #1.

Re: Distributor orientation
 

Its actually common for the #1 wire on cap and rotor pointing more forward or towards #2 cylinder. Mainly because the VA can have the swing (movement) to either move it towards firewall or more towards front of engine to set timing without slamming it up against firewall or intake manifold. Higher Air Gap intakes often have it set up this way. Also easier access to get into the Dwell cap

The motor does not care what position #1 wire is on cap as long as rotor is also pointing same place.

To move it do as suggested above. Use a long flat blade screwdriver to position the oil pump tang to line up with slot in dizzy shaft.

illustration on R was how my 327 was set up

Re: Distributor orientation
 

Thanks for the info. The main reason I want to move it is the VA is almost up against the firewall now.
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Re: Distributor orientation
 

If you just want to get your VA pointing in a different direction, then you could unplug all of the spark plug wires from the distributor cap and plug them back in one or two positions over in the clockwise direction. Then you'd loosen the distributor clamp and rotate the distributor counterclockwise to get the #1 wire back to its current location. Adjust the timing with a timing light afterward, of course.

Re: Distributor orientation
 

I agree with PJ. His method is easiest. Pulling the distributor to clock the rotor is a pain. If you pull the distributor, I did recently learned that the easiest way to get the oil pump shaft in place is to drop distributor in with rotor and housing clocked to your desired position. Most likely the oil pump shaft will not be clocked and the distributor will be off its seat 3/8 of a inch or so. Hand rotate the engine will rotate the distributor shaft. Distributor will align to the oil pump shaft and drop into position on its seat and you are good to go. I was concerned the oil pump shaft would spin with the the slot out of place and not be able to get things to line up but it worked on my SB multiple times.

That sounds much easier. Thanks for the tip!
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Re: Distributor orientation
 

Your about 90 degrees to far clockwise with the dizzy already. The number one plug wire should be in the 5 oclock position. The two cap screws should be at 9 and 3 oclock, not 6 and 12. The sight window should be facing the front of the motor. Your wire locations on the cap look good but the cap and dizzy need to rotate left 90 degrees. Pull the cap with wires attached and set it back out of the way. Pull the coil wire, and pull the #1 plug. Put your finger over the #1 plug hole and have someone (or use a remote starter button) bump the starter until compression blows your finger off the plug hole. Look down at the harmonic balancer timing tab and by hand rotate the motor to get 0 degrees TDC. Now pull your dizzy and rotate it so the cap screws are at the 9 & 3 oclock positions, and the rotor pointing at the five oclock position. The oil pump slot aligns with the pointer/electrode on the rotor. If the oil pump is not allowing the dizzy to fully seat, use a long screw driver with a mark on the handle to turn the oil pump until it lines up with the number one plug wire location on the cap, (5 oclock) The dizzy should fully drop in with the rotor pointing to #1. The cap screws should also still be close to or in the 3 & 9 oclock positions. Here is the correct orientation of the dizzy's and the #1 plug wire locations, note the difference between HEI and Points...

Re: Distributor orientation
 

If your dizzy doesn’t drop down use a 1/4” drive extension with socket to manually move the oil pump shaft. Just a little bit it all it usually takes.
I believe it’s a 1/4” socket but it’s been a while so not sure.
Mark

Re: Distributor orientation
 

This video explains how and for some people it's easier to understand when watching how it's done , . I'd be very careful trying to align the pump using an extension with a socket ,it could turn into a bad day if the socket came off the extension inside the engine , :chevy:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O4WRL513Gx4

Re: Distributor orientation
 

The 302 Ford uses a 1/4" hex shaft and the 351 uses a 5/16" hex shaft. Chevy uses a tongue and slot method, that's why a long screw driver with a mark on the handle corresponding with the straight edge of the screw driver so you know which way the slot is pointing. The slot always lines up with the rotor cap! Heres what the oil pump shaft looks like, the slot is only 5/32" wide...

Re: Distributor orientation
 

Excellent video! That is exactly how I install my dizzy's. I suggested using the screw driver method for the sake of simplicity. Most people dont realize that the rotor cap and slot are in line with one another...

Re: Distributor orientation
 

I would pity the next poor mechanic that comes up on this.
I can hear him now, "how in the F does this thing run"?

Yes the move the wires works. I would have to stay with the standard configuration as I would likely forget what I did there.
First I mark the distributor base where # 1 plug is on the cap. Then I leave the cap off for the rest of the procedure.
I put the distributor in position one tooth to the right so when it fall in it's in the correct position. Then turn the motor over, with the starter, while pushing on the distributor. It will fall in somewhere on the first rotation. With the starter, I keep rotating the motor till the pointer is close to the timing mark (two engine rotations). Then finish the Line-up, with the timing mark manually, and confirm the distributor is in the correct position. This works for me. If you have a ohm meter set the timing, on the balancer, to the factory spec. Say 7 degrees, then rotate distributor till the points just open using the ohm meter. You timing should be close enough to start perfectly.

At the factory they smacked the distributor with a rubber hammer to line up the oil pump. I don't recommend that procedure but it obviously worked.
Is the empty port on the intake where you disconnected the vacuum advance line?
Cheers

Re: Distributor orientation
 

What can happen when you pull a dizzy is you wind up moving the oil pump drive some so when you go to put dizzy back in, with the marks you put on dizzy & intake manifold lined up, it won't drop all the way back in because the OP drive moved some. Just rotating the engine a little with the dizzy in all the way but last 1/4 " just rotate engine by hand clockwise until it drops. What the video link method shows

or before you do reinstall it, use a ling flat blade screwdriver to position the OP drive shaft slot so its pointing the same direction as rotor for #1

It is not critical the rotor points directly at #1 as shown in illustration in post #3. You just want the VA can positioned so it can swing in both directions without contacting firewall or intake manifold to set timing. My #1 actually points more forward, center, than "5 o'clock" (more like 6:30 o'clock) as my Air Gap intake is higher than stock. It also allows easier access to the Dwell slop on cap.

Re: Distributor orientation
 

As people have already said, you can put the distributor in any position you'd like, as well as put the #1 plug wire in any spot, as long as you put the wires in the right order with the rotor pointed at #1 with the engine at top dead center on cylinder 1.
By the way, having been in the automotive industry for over 30 years, I've never heard any other professional use the term "dizzy". This is the only place I've seen it. Is that something exclusive to here or is that what people actually call it in other parts of the country?

Re: Distributor orientation
 

Don't know when I was introduced to the term but I've been using as long as I can remember! Pretty common among those in my circles.

-klb

Re: Distributor orientation
 

This thread is making me DIZZY ! :smoke:

Re: Distributor orientation
 

I'm going to start calling my differential Diffy.

Re: Distributor orientation
 

If you've made it this far into this thread , JUST WATCH THE VIDEO !

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O4WRL513Gx4

Re: Distributor orientation
 

Dizzy is common to Oz, NZ, jolly old England too.
Along with bonnet(hood), carbie, guards(bumpers), extractors(headers), boots(wheels).
You can pick up a lot at a car show down under.

Re: Distributor orientation
 

If it is just for "appearance" you will have anyone who ever works on that engine doing tune up or trouble shooting behind you mad as all get out. That is one thing that really ticked me off about some guy's home engine work when it came into the shop. The distributor oriented different from stock.

After rereading the whole thread top to bottom and looking at the diagrams, you can either go for the correct layout for the year model of the truck or of the model of the engine or points style or HEI.


As far as rotating the distributor and rotor to where you want it to be.

First bump the engine over until you have the engine on TDC for #1 with the timing marks lined up on the damper and tab. Rotor should be at it's current #1 position.

Figure out how much you want to move the rotor and the distributor body. pick a reference point on the engine, carb or what not to aim the rotor at.

take the hold down bolt loose and lift the distributor just enough to turn the rotor to the new position. It may or may not drop into the oil pump drive but it will drop when you crank it a bit. I never get too excited about if it will drop right down but it drives some guys crazy to have to fiddle with it. I usually just bump the engine around until the rotor is pointing at where #1 wants to be and the timing marks are lined up again. Then rotate the distributor body so that the points are open the distributor cam and lock down the distributor, put the cap on and fire it up (or try to) and set the timing.

Re: Distributor orientation
 

The HEI cap in your pic is 180 degrees off. The connector should be on the driver's side.

Re: Distributor orientation
 

While we all know the dizzy can be in any position as long as #1 plug wire and rotor line up to that wire regardless on what cap position it is in when #1 cyl is TDC

Relative to OP's pic in post 1, his dizzy needs to turn counterclockwise about 90 degrees and have #1 plug wire where it currently is on cap line up to the rotor then pointing at #1 cyl with #1 piston at TDC. Several methods in this thread have shown how to do that. His VA canister would then not be slammed against firewall

Re: Distributor orientation
 

I thought the boot was the trunk in Great Britain speak.

Re: Distributor orientation
 

I did notice that, it should be opposite the vacuum canister, (driver side)...Good eye! I didn't want to add to an already confusing topic. ;)