Tailgate Jammed Shut.
Vehicle is a '71 GMC Jimmy. K/5 body style incorporates the same One-Handed opening tailgate as the Fleetwood body style.
Handle is jammed, and won't pull out. Possibly the RH relay rod has popped out of its hole. Not sure how to access the relay rod junction. One of the clips must've broken off. I cannot get the tailgate down. Upper hatch still works OK. :gmc2: |
Re: Tailgate Jammed Shut.
Is it the same handle as a C10 fleetside? If so, why can't you take out the 3 screws on the inside an then access the handle and rods?
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It's a Blazer type body. I can feel where the screws are. It's just that it's my work truck and is filled with assorted toolboxes and parts kits. I don't have time right now with a demanding work schedule. And I can't take the chance of deep repairs on the one running truck.
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OK. Now I see what I'm up against.
Stovebolt screw heads. Every picture I've seen has Screwheads with #3 Phillips universal heads or hex cap screws. Not here. St Louis decided slot heads would work fine. Afterall, everybody trades in their trucks for a new one every 5 years, right? Oh well. Last night, after determining these screws had not been touched in 52 years, I shot them a couple times with PB Blaster. I'll repeat the process, as I'm not sure of much penetration. Have to find me a wide slot bit for the 1/4" impact driver, too. Also gotta get 3 Phillips screws for the reinstall. Have not ordered a new tailgate handle yet. I figured I'd look at the one I've got to see if it can be fine-tuned with a BFH, before getting a replacement of questionable quality. |
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Also try a impact driver
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Re: Tailgate Jammed Shut.
Use the straw on the PB Blaster and try to get some into the latches on each side. That might help. And the tailgates are the same as the 10 and 20 series trucks, except for the addition of the strip at the top for the hatch seal.
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I thought of it, but I have a 20 volt DeWalt 1/4'' impact gun, and an 18 volt 3/8'' impact gun. I figure they oughta get it. Just gotta locate a wide slot bit. |
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Yes, except for the top hatch mating strip, K/5 + K/1500 tailgates are identical with Fleetsides. [I also found out Squarebody tailgates are taller, but will fit a '67-'72 Fleetside rear bed. But not any Blazer/Jimmy types, with a top. I do have a half-a-truck utility trailer that has no tailgate.] |
Re: Tailgate Jammed Shut.
Try the old style impact like Warren says. They usually do the job. Cheap at Harbor Freight. I have impact drivers also, but as you probably know you can booger a screw if your not careful. You didn't say if you'd tried a big screwdriver. Maybe they'll pop loose easier than you think. Put the screwdriver in the slot and give it a good tap. Just thinking.
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The orange screwdriver below was my Grandfather's. [I painted the handle Chevy Engine Orange years ago, goofing around with engine paint].
Blade width is about 3/8''. I tried it and almost goobered the slot on one of the stovebolt screws. They are ON THERE. Guess I'll be making a Harbor Freight run tomorrow. |
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Don't be afraid to use a propane or mapp gas torch on those screw heads. I would usually just get them as hot as I can with a propane torch without effecting the the surrounding metal. Hold the flame on there for a minute or two...
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If that was the factory standard, then I wonder if a PO 'hy-graded' the OEM chrome handle [CST trim level truck] and substituted a cheap repop black handle and even used cheap stovebolt screws with Loktite on reassembly. This tailgate also has a squarebody trim panel with big red GMC letters covering the tailgate. Leading me to suspect it's not a GMC tailgate, and the original was lost, stolen or damaged sometime between 1971 and 1995, when I bought it. |
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:devil: |
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A hollowgroud screw driver would be best, won't burr up the slots
Its like using a chisel to get the screw out if you use a standard screw driver |
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Hollow ground is cut straight across with the same thickness. Regular drivers actually have a taper. The hollow ground driver grabs the entire slot firmly. I have a set I use on guns to prevent marring the screws. Another thought. I may be old, but I still believe liquid wrench in the squirt can is still one of the best break free tonics. Very runny and it will seek the smallest cracks like under your screw heads. Not as messy as you can barely give a squirt. Come back in a while and you'll be able to see if it wept under the screw head. Do it a few times until you're thinking it's enough and then do it some more. Another thing about the old style impact driver the driver heads appear to be hollow ground so they won't slip out of the slot. Assuming the slots aren't fubar already. If I couldn't get them out I would probably take a drill bit with a pilot point and drill the heads off. Good luck.
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Well said
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Went on a hardware chase this afternoon. Bought 3] 5/16-18 x 3/4 Grade 8 hexhead capscrews and some washers. [Ace Hdw didn't have the Truss head screws w/ #3 Phillips ]
Shot out to Harbor Freight and got the impact driver. Looking around the store, I didn't see it. Then I collared one of the store guys and showed him Warren's pic off my android. ''Oh yeah, right over here...'' There's a pretty wide slot bit in the kit. If that doesn't work, I'll drill the stovebolt heads out with a drill bit, and knock them off with a punch, and then play Easy Outs with the remains. You guys are helping a lot. Thanks. |
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If you have a decent bench grinder, you can grind the driver to fit your head of the screw
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In a situation such as yours, Red Green would recommend one of those big yellow tools.
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Let the PB Blaster soak in. I now have an impact driver. Didn't work on it today. Got an overdue haircut. Then it rained. Now it's dark. Man~ana. But if the rain stopped, I could go out and shoot more PB Blaster on them screws. |
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