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Old 05-09-2005, 07:11 PM   #41
SCOTI
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Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loweredd
Are you implying I cant weld?
Before I had the 20's on there during the winter, I probably put 5000 miles on it. Why do you ask?
No. I'm not implying anything. I asked simply for verification of actual road testing after completion of this mod.
I was mainly curious of any pitfalls that might have been discovered.
Quote:
Originally Posted by loweredd
How is this NOT a piece of cake modification? It's just about the same thing as putting in a rear notch!
I wouldn't say it's just about the same. Thats oversimplifying the amount of work involved.

A 'c-notch' doesn't mandate:
  • complete disection of the frame rails
  • removal of suspension pieces
  • removal of sheetmetal (depending on the year of the vehicle)
  • additional fabrication because of the notch
'Z-ing' the frame:
  • requires complete disection of the frame rails
  • requires removal of @ least some suspension pieces
  • requires the removal of the front sheetmetal (or if creative, you must @ least unbolt some of it)
  • requires further modifications to other affected areas (steering linkage, radiator connections/shroud, trans tunnel)

All that plus you don't have to triangulate for a c-notch (unless installing a step-notch) but it's pretty important for 'z-ing' the front suspension.

This isn't a slam on you personally. I just don't want someone w/limited skills to cut up their truck thinking this is a "piece of cake" mod. It requires some amount of skill to pull off. 'C-notches' can be installed by those w/limited skill (some don't even require welding & will bolt in place).
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Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
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Last edited by SCOTI; 05-09-2005 at 07:16 PM.
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