[budbeater]

I have not seen any threads on this subject, so since I just finished mine I am going to start one that is worthy of FAQ or sticky. Bear with me because this should take me about a week or so to get right. I have alot of pictures and my upload time sucks!

First: My truck is a 1971 Chevrolet K20. Most of you know that is a longbed 4x4. The rear axle in my truck is the almost indestructible Eaton HO52. The axle shafts are 1 5/8" and very beefy. The problem with the axle lies with the brakes. There were several sizes of drums for this axle and from what I understand multiple sizes were avaliable on the same model year. I had the 12" brakes. The only parts avaliable for the 12" setup is the pads (and perhaps some of the spring hardware.) The cylinders are not avaliable and the drums are not either. Since my passenger wheel cylinder was shot I decided to convert to disks. After looking around at some options I figured for my level of incompetence a pre-built kit would be the best bet.

Several board members recommended the kit from Blackbird Custom Trucks. I found their website and contacted the owner Randy. As most of us know dealing with over-the-phone, catalog, or internet site only businesses can be a royal pain in the butt. This was NOT my experience with Randy and Blackbird Custom Trucks. Even after he had my money Randy would answer my phone calls and patiently walk me through my problems. I don't know if he felt I was a pain in the butt, but he never let me feel like I was bothering or inconveniencing him. Thanks Randy!

Due to time pressures on my end I chose to order a partial kit because I could get the calipers from a local NAPA dealer. THAT WAS A HUGE MISTAKE! Get the whole kit from Blackbird. For some stupid reason the major brake rebuilders are rebuilding the calipers wrong. I believe that they are using a piston that is about 1/8" too long and won't clear the rotor. Absolutely get all the parts from Blackbird. (It was significantly cheaper for me when I finally returned my NAPA calipers and ordered them from Blackbird.) The Kit was ordered on a Tuesday and was at my house on Friday. I live about 800miles from their business site so the shipping was quick I felt.

The whole kit comes with disks, loaded calipers (if you order a kit with E-brake provisions is comes assembled on the caliper), brackets and new hardware where required.

For the project you are going to need:

Tools:
Jack
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Breaker bar (some of this stuff is old and rusty)
Torque wrench
Impact gun (helps, but not critical)
Open/Box Wrenches
Ratchets 3/8" and 1/2" drive
multiple sockets
Shop Press (mine is a 12 ton and worked fine)
Big Screwdriver
Several Flathead Screwdrivers
Big Hammer ( I use both a 2 and 3lb sledge)
Vice Grips (several sizes)
Pliers
Tubing Bender (for new brake lines)
High Speed Cut off tool
Dremel tool
GM brake tool
Spindle Nut wrench

Supplys:

I like to keep my hands clean so I use latex gloves for all the solvent/grease/fluid work
About 6 rolls of shop towels
Grease
Brake fluid
3qts of axle fluid
about 12-20cans of brake cleaner.
RVT Sealant
POR 15 or some other rust treatment paint
200 grit wet/dry sandpaper

Other Parts:

diff gasket
hub bearings
hub/axle seals


Step One: Clean Up your work area. You need clear access around the back wheels,and since you will be pulling the axles you need about 4 feet on each side of the truck.

Step Two: Lets get the truck in the air. Jack that sucker up. Chock the front wheels. Put some great big jackstands solidly under the axle.

Step Three: Lets get the wheels off. Time to break out the impact gun and get the lugs off.