[jeffspower]

Originally Posted by OldCreek

My thoughts...

I thought the drilled and slotted rotors were to help cooling and prevent fade, especially in towing and race applications. Maybe they help clear debris. I think true stopping power is a matter of surface area, diameter of the rotors, piston number/pressure applied, amount of vacuum assist/hydro assist, quality/age of brake fluid, and even brake pad type.

In other words, I doubt switching to slotted/drilled rotors would do much. Pads...maybe so.

I've changed the vacuum hose alone and it made a dramatic difference in brake pressure needed. i.e. make sure all your stuff is in working order.

The larger the tire the more work needed to stop, also!

I agree that the rotors might not make much difference other than reducing brake fade. I feel that everything is "up to OE" braking power on both of my trucks, but I know they could be better without spending a fortune. These years of trucks never had strong brakes when they were new. With the exception of hydraboost, what GM pickups did, or currently do? None come to mind. I could just mod in a hydraboost, but don't really want all the ugly lines. My '72 already has a tandem booster. Plenty of vac with a stock 500 Cad too.

Have you ever driven a big Mopar from the mid 70s? Most of them would throw you thru the windshield if you breathed on the brake pedal. Nothing trick on those old boats, but they had awesome strong brakes. Too strong for some people- customers would come in the shop back in the day complaining about them. I wish I brakes like them.

Originally Posted by Billhilly

Well I wanted my 4000lbs of runaway GMC to stop as good as possible given its a 37 year old, 3/4 ton, solid axle, 4X4 truck so I have bought Yellowstuff pads, and cryoed stock rotors. (Well I sent my rotors off, the guy took my money and he sent my rotors back!).
No help at all in regards to before/after comparisons. Still stuck rebuilding. On a side note my lathe guy didn't want to slot my rotors for me so I settled on making sure they were round (true). Three out of the four rotors I bought needed work. Any disc runout can cause longterm headaches too.

Dang, I would think yellow pads on rear discs would drag the tires easily. Silly question... your bleeder screw is on the bottom- did you bleed it with the caliper flipped over, as to put the bleeder at the top?