Quote:
Originally Posted by dfairchild19
I believe I understand what all it takes for this setup to work properly. The vendor that I had lined up said that either he or Cummins offers a kit to run this setup. This included the inlet housing/compressor mount that bolts to the block, an upper and lower alternator mount, a new straight up upper water outlet neck, a new lower water inlet neck that turns 90 left out of the housing then 90 down(wont work), a tensioner and tensioner bracket, as well as a new compressor and alternator. The package of all brand new components came to a total of a little over $1100. I believe that I would be able to use everything in the kit except for the lower inlet neck which I could use a neck that just comes straight out of the housing similar to the one you ended up going with. I should be able to use the lower tensioner bracket and tensioner depending on how much the bracket tries to interfere with the frame as I can just fab a notch into the frame since it will be fully boxed and will not compromise the strength of the frame.
It is definitely more than I wanted to shell out for this setup and he supposedly has his alternator and custom made to a one wire 22 si higher output and his compressor lines custom made to a specific orientation as well. I have no experience with this setup to know if any of this is needed or if either of these components are available off the shelf which is part of the reason I asked for the specs for your setup and how much you had wrapped up in it.
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I'll check on what I have available for numbers etc. I got some deals on my parts, so my prices will not be relevant. The alternator that I bought from a local truck dealer was one wire right out of the box, so I don't think he is really doing anything for you on that one. I think most big truck alternators are self-energizing. There are a couple choices on compressors, so you will have to figure out which one will work. I reused my stock tensioner, but I relocated it.
3285102 might be the thermostat housing
3930822 is the connection, water inlet
3906697 are the seals for this part to the motor and to the hose fitting (x2)
3910495 M12 x 1.75 x 30 (X3) Bolts to retain housing to block
3900679 M10 x 1.50 x 80 (X3) Bolts to retain hose fitting
3930838 Bracket Belt tensioner
3924026 Belt tensioner asm
3904446 M10 x 1.50 x 70 Tensioner bolt
3918275 Alternator Pulley
3930820 lower alt mount
3920862 Brace, alternator (forward/upper bracket)
Sanden 4667 compressor. This is the one that I used. There is also a unit available off of a Class 8 Sterling tractor that has hose fittings coming out of the side of the rear head instead of out the rear like the one I used.
The bolt number are for reference only (you will need these bolts to mount this stuff, but buy them somewhere else). I have a belt tensioner mounting plate here if you decide you need one. I'm not going to use it. Look real close at how I ran my belt. It wouldn't surprise me if you end up with something very similar by the time you are done.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dfairchild19
I have a Parker Store nearby but I am not sure if they would mess with these fittings or not. Its worth a shot to have high quality hoses that fit correctly I suppose. I'm not sure how I will give them something to make them off of short of taking the box, pump, and booster to them if I don't have the hoses to show the ends and also don't know the orientation of the hoses. Maybe that will become more apparent when I have the components all present and together. Search may help a bit too.  |
There are only two different sizes of fittings. 16mm and 18mm. It is readily apparent which is which. Stop by and talk to your Parker store and discuss what you are doing and have them give a few suggestions on how to get the desired results. This is why having the ends off of some donor hoses may help--may not though.
Pump pressure hose fitting: 16mm
Hydroboost from pump: 18mm
Hydroboost to steering box: 16mm
Steering box from Hydroboost: 18mm
steering box return: 16mm
Get some extra o-rings. I use fuel injection line o-rings. Standard Motor Products is a number SK26. Very good thing to have around when you have that many fittings in service on one vehicle.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dfairchild19
As for the steering box, I will not be running the stock 4wd unit. Instead I already planned to run a 2wd 81-87 box for crossover its splined input shaft that will mate up to an xj steering shaft to keep everything tight and do away with the rag joints.
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Make sure that xj shaft will talk to your steering column. The xj shafts that I have seen use a double d shaped femal end on the column end--not a splined female like your current intermediate shaft has.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dfairchild19
As you should be!!! Your help and experience with all of this is great but I also enjoy talking to you and others that have been down many of the same roads that I have been and will be. I know I could get by without having you and others to talk with and ask questions but it sure would be a whole different ball game than having access to pick your brain about all of this. I'm not sure that's a game that I want to play!!!
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Hopefully yours willl take less time than mine. That list of part number took close to two weeks to figure out because I had no engine serial number to reference for parts. Nothing Cummins gets done withour a serial number or CPL number--NOTHING. There is no "I need the part that comes on all the Dodges that looks like this and does that" Relply: "Got a serial number??"
Luckily I found a guy who was a glutten for punishment and had the patience of a saint and he searched Cummins for many days digging up all the numbers and parts. I did what I could via the internet, but he really save my bacon on this part of the project.