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87chevy.com · 01-29-2011, 11:53 PM

update: photo illustration on how I redrilled the 5x5 pattern.

printed template

trimmed timplate freehand to get rid of excess, have the butyl tape ready for next step

2 things happened in this step. 1st was to get a piece of cardboard and a pick. I placed the template on the cardboard and used the pick to punch through the center " X " of the 5x5 pattern. this will allow me to see where I need to place the center punch in the following step. 2nd thing that happened in this step was to apply a smear of the butyl tape. Its similar to sticky tack (the blue stuff) but its automotive grade and can be real sticky and messy when it gets real warm. I smeared 4 little spots on the tempate so it will stick to the front of the rotor.

Placed the template with the butyl tape on the face of the rotor, and then aligned the center "hub" cirlce to the center hole of the rotor, then centered the 5x4.75 pattern through the lug holes

Used a center punch and punced each of the 5x5 pattern on the dimples we made in the previous step with the pick and cardboard. A firm tap with a hammer does the trick. I will go back over it once all 5 have been done prior to drilling. I didnt take a photo of me drilling becuase thats just boring. I had a lot of worn out bits (forgot my decent set at work

). Basically went in steps, 1/8 so it could find the center punch mark real easy. then went up to 1/4, then 3/8, then I think i went strait to 1/2 then to 9/16. Due to my choice of wheel stud, Dorman 610-298, 2" long wheel stud, they have shoulder of 5/16, stock doesnt have one at all.... The shoulder requires you to put a chamfer on the inside of the 5x5 pattern so the rotor will sit on the axle flange rather than the stud. no big deal. I simply had a 5/8 drill bit and went down untill the drill bit made its full diameter into the rotor. Imagine when you are going from small drill bit to bigger... and when you first start drilling the beginning of the hole isnt 100% round, it takes a little bit of depth before its the diameter of the bit, thats how it looked. I did not finish the brakes, I kept on forgetting things at the parts store

. I need to double check a few things, remove, take photos, paint, re assemble, bleed, fill axle fluid and bed the pads in.

but heres a pic of them on 17" wheels... 1.8" smaller than what I had before, the caliper is a lot smaller than the one I had before but its a bit more proportionate.. either way, it looks great, parking brake is 2 cables away

01-29-2011, 11:53 PM	#64
87chevy.com BMW & ASE Master Certified Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Houston, Texas Posts: 1,256	Re: True C5 Rear Disc w/ internal parking brake in the works update: photo illustration on how I redrilled the 5x5 pattern. printed template trimmed timplate freehand to get rid of excess, have the butyl tape ready for next step 2 things happened in this step. 1st was to get a piece of cardboard and a pick. I placed the template on the cardboard and used the pick to punch through the center " X " of the 5x5 pattern. this will allow me to see where I need to place the center punch in the following step. 2nd thing that happened in this step was to apply a smear of the butyl tape. Its similar to sticky tack (the blue stuff) but its automotive grade and can be real sticky and messy when it gets real warm. I smeared 4 little spots on the tempate so it will stick to the front of the rotor. Placed the template with the butyl tape on the face of the rotor, and then aligned the center "hub" cirlce to the center hole of the rotor, then centered the 5x4.75 pattern through the lug holes Used a center punch and punced each of the 5x5 pattern on the dimples we made in the previous step with the pick and cardboard. A firm tap with a hammer does the trick. I will go back over it once all 5 have been done prior to drilling. I didnt take a photo of me drilling becuase thats just boring. I had a lot of worn out bits (forgot my decent set at work ). Basically went in steps, 1/8 so it could find the center punch mark real easy. then went up to 1/4, then 3/8, then I think i went strait to 1/2 then to 9/16. Due to my choice of wheel stud, Dorman 610-298, 2" long wheel stud, they have shoulder of 5/16, stock doesnt have one at all.... The shoulder requires you to put a chamfer on the inside of the 5x5 pattern so the rotor will sit on the axle flange rather than the stud. no big deal. I simply had a 5/8 drill bit and went down untill the drill bit made its full diameter into the rotor. Imagine when you are going from small drill bit to bigger... and when you first start drilling the beginning of the hole isnt 100% round, it takes a little bit of depth before its the diameter of the bit, thats how it looked. I did not finish the brakes, I kept on forgetting things at the parts store . I need to double check a few things, remove, take photos, paint, re assemble, bleed, fill axle fluid and bed the pads in. but heres a pic of them on 17" wheels... 1.8" smaller than what I had before, the caliper is a lot smaller than the one I had before but its a bit more proportionate.. either way, it looks great, parking brake is 2 cables away __________________ 1987 Silverado - L83 5.3 w/ 6L80e ,A/C,P/W,P/L,TILT, HID projectors, Wilwood C-10 Pro Spindles w/ 2018 silverado front brakes & C-5 Corvette Rear Disc Brakes 1999 BMW 528i - 5.7 LS1 w/ 4l60e, Ford 8.8 IRS w31 spline posi & FX-r projector retrofit New project: 2006 BMW x5 6cyl AWD to L83 6l80e 4wd to 2WD / RWD A poor man buy's it twice finally got my domain name back, 87chevy.com.... site rework in progress Last edited by 87chevy.com; 01-30-2011 at 12:12 AM.