[AzDon]

Okay.... reciever on the high side of the condensor? Does it have a high/low switch? The switch in photo 1 is on the low side line next to the low side fitting. This will NOT protect the system from excess pressure. I don't see an expansion valve at the end of the high pressure line and it looks like the line going into the bottom of the suitcase is the inlet fitting of the evap "core", so I still believe there is an orifice tube inside that fitting. I still believe that ALL firewall-mounted GM evap suitcases use orifice tubes. I believe that the GM low-side drier can was removed because I see the mount that it was strapped to. The system WILL WORK with a high-side drier and I especially like that those usually have a little window to look for bubbles in the freon.
The rear A/C units DO have expansion valves
I'm not sure exactly why someone felt the need to foam wrap the line COMING OUT of the evap TO the compressor......The only part of the systen that provides colder air by being wrapped is from the orifice tube fitting to the suitcase (because it's inbound).
Whoever set up those lines was completely unconcerned about aesthetics and was thrashin to get-r-done! Those fittings, barbs, and clamps ARE made for A/C, but really meant more for quick-n-dirty fast completion than for cleanliness and safety. The system will run up to 300 lbs before cutting off (if you have the high switch installed). At 400 psi, i've seen hoses explode! I want the crimped stuff for safety!
The A/C book I've got is the soft-cover Haynes A/C book from the parts store. That and the Vintage Air Catalog should give you all the basics you'll need. If you're sticking with the Sanden compressor, be sure to use the correct PAG oil.

When putting the gauges on the empty system, be sure the knobs are shut and know that both gauges will read with the valves shut .It is recommended that you hook a vacuum pump to the charge (yellow) line and vacuum the system as low as it will go (blue knob open) on the low side gauge. close the gauge valve (blue knob), shut the pump off and wait 1/2 hour to see if the vacuum holds. If it does, do not open any valves until you have a can of pag oil on the end of the yellow hose, punctured, and the yellow hose bled of air by slightly unscrewing it at the gauges and bleeding till you get oil. Open the low side fitting and let the oil vacuum in which may occur without having to run the compressor. The second can (freon) probably won't go in without running the compressor. You may have to jumper twelve volts to the clutch until the system has enough pressure to defeat the low-pressure shutoff switch. The WHOLE OPERATION is done using the blue, low side knob ONLY. as you run the system, the compressor will create the high-side pressure. On the gauges, you are looking for not over 300psi on the high side (red) and between 20 and 60 on the low side (blue). If you get to either 60 low side or 300 high side, stop adding freon. Actually 40-50 and 200 are about perfect!

In Arizona, because of our low humidity, you can get away without doing the vacuum process, but keep in mind that air (especially wet air) both contaminates and displaces freon in the system, and you'll lose the opportunity to use vacuum to check for leaks, so evacuation is recommended.