Hi Orrie! I have to read stuff over and over again to get into my head! takes a while sometime! lol
*The idea of a supplemental bracket for the MC and power booster sounds good! I do want the MC towards the middle of beneath the seat with a more accessible trap door. I just need to sit under the truck for a while and stare at it for a while and visulize how it's going to work. You're right, if I need to pull the tranny in the future, breaking the brake lines and even disassembly of the mc/power booster wouldn't be that much more work. Hopefully the tranny will last a little while(a fresh rebuild on the Turbo 350).
**Regarding the engine leveling? How does one know what level is? The tranny and new engine supports kind of set that? There is no adjustment on the supports I've installed?
*** 6 location, 8 location? a 6 vs 8 cylinder? So this will depend on what radiator I purchase? I haven't gotten that far yet, but will be on the lookout for what I SHOULD put for a radiator. I am installing vintage AC, so I don't want any overheating! I put a Griffin in my '67Mustang, but I can't afford that again.
**** I guess as far at the shocks go(angle and length), I'll just have to try it. In the photo, the suspension is hanging and I put the upper shock attachments at their full extended position, leaving the 5" of travel. I have no clue have low my truck will sit until that fateful day when it's back on the ground with engine and tranny installed. ; ) Someday! ; )
dne'
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OrrieG
Because of the 4wd my tranny mount is 4-6" lower. If MC was not an issue you could just set up the trans mount to slide back inside the frame if you needed to remove the trans. If you build a supplemental bracket for the mc and move it back, you can build an adjustible rod from the brake lever to mc, I used heavy wall 1/2" EMT, welded in a nut on one end for adjustment and made a clevis end for the other. Some one here did one that looked like it was 2' plus long! Worst case is you would have to remove the MC and bleed the brakes after reinstall or maybe use flex lines from the MC to the proportioning valve or brake line block so you could drop it? I have never seen flex in that application and do not know if it would compromise braking, but if you can use it on the other end at the calipers, pressure is the same, if does not seen like it would be an issue.
Clearance to firewall looks good with the HEI you are using. Engine should be set with the intake manifold level, that puts the engine down 4 degrees in the back.
Radiator clearance depends on if you use the stock 6 location or v8 location that was shrouded back about 4-5". I kept mine in 6 location and used a shroud, makes it easier to set the radiator and installing other junk on the front of the engine.
Most shocks are mounted in the center of the total travel at static weighted height. Make sure the upper mount bolt center line is the same ans the lower or it will not move as the suspension moves. I got to build my brackets twice because of that brain fart on my part, could not figure out why nothing moved when I put in the engine!
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