Quote:
Originally Posted by coulter
love ur work man keep it up!!!! i see you used the drill bit to bevel the holes but does it work well as a normal drill bit with that much angle? looks like it would work great but i was just curious
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Thanks!
I actually haven't tried to use it as a normal drill bit since then, only used it to put the taper on those holes, but I don't see why it wouldn't work, although it may try to bite and stick with as long as the cutting edges are now. It'll get thrown in with the rest of my specialty tools anyway though.
Just a quickie update from today, got the steering box bolted up to the frame, using some flange nuts for spacers since they have a taper at 1 end for a good weld and the large flanged end for lots of contact area on the steering box. The nuts will be welded on. And of course, used grade 8 bolts to secure the box. Also note that that is a stock 2wd pitman arm on there with the standard amount of drop, clears the frame with plenty of room. When I boxed and plated the frame I moved the steering box forward about 1'' and rotated it so the pitman shaft was more vertical, not by much but it definitely will keep the pitman arm from swinging in such an extreme low(turned to lock) to high (center) to low (turned to lock) arc.
Just the right amount of room.
I modified some old front clip mounts I made a while back to look a little better, bolted them to the frame temporarily just to get them in position, I've since welded them on. The holes make it go faster too.
And I bolted up an oil pan to check for clearance, unfortunately I don't think I would be able to pull the pan with main caps and a crank in the way, but the motor mount cross member is easy enough to drop if the need arises. I've got about ~1.25'' of clearance with that particular pan.
Hoping to get the transfer case done over the weekend, should only take me a few hours since I've done it a couple times already. I'll doing the twin stick mod to the shift rails while I'm at it.