[robnolimit]

Locating Devices Good topic. For normal builds, there are a few types. - I know, but most street builds are not going to have a Satchel Link, Jacobs Ladder, Mumford Link..... Lets keep it simple.
1) Diagonal Links Such as in a triangulated four bar. This is simple and effective, but the same geometry that keeps the rear axle centered also creates a bind during the suspension travel. The fix is to use piviting joints, or rod ends, for the link ends, but this can be expensive and yeild a harsh ride. Also, this design is difficult to tune and adjust the roll center and anti-squat.
2)Panhard Rod Still pretty simple, this is the 'fifth' link in a four bar system. A panhard has only one job, side to side location. They can tend to 'push' or 'pull' the axle to one side during suspension travel. The fix is to use a long panhard rod. A 30" panhard rod has appx .190" of side motion in 6" of travel - if it is level at R.H. Packaging a longer rod into the chassis can be tough. Roll center tuning is easier.
3)Diagonal locator This is more of a drag car item. Typically on a four bar or ladder bar. This is a diagonal link that mounts to the front of one lower bar, and the rear of the other lower bar. Sometimes with a bend in the middle to clear the driveshaft. While easy to fit in most of the time, this is not a real 'street' friendly set up, as it does not want to let the car 'rotate' in a corner.
4)Wish Bone Used in Off Road and Drag racing, This can be used with, or in place of two bars in a four bar. We see this more and more in air bag installs. While this works, there is little to no gain in street performance. To work correctly, it needs piviting mounts on all three ends, rod ends or pivit links, such as Johnny joints.
5)Watts Link A watts link may be the most accurate locator, and one of the most complicated to get right. Packaging may be tough. Also, while the motion is very pure, it is more difficult to have a tunable set-up for the roll center.