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Old 10-24-2013, 05:46 PM   #17
storm9c1
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
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Re: GM LS Broken Exhaust Manifold Bolt Fix (step by step with pics)"

I just use grade-8 bolts of the correct length and thread these days. I've had good success with both hardware store (zinc coated) and automotive grade flanged bolts. No need to overcomplicate it. In most cases, you can use studs with nuts too. Studs especially help on aluminum heads since the stud can/will seize in aluminum but the nuts can be more easily removed. Studs also help lining things up during reassembly. I think the last set I used were ARP (expensive, but I had them in stock left over from another project). Studs also help hold the gasket and help guide the manifold on. But be careful though, some vehicles are so tight that adding studs prevents the manifolds from being slid into place. It can either help or hurt you.

On some engines with iron heads, I've used stainless steel bolts. They aren't as strong but are easier to drill out (than grade-8) if they do happen to break. Harder to weld to SS as well, so choose carefully. Needless to say, you have many options.
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Chevy by day...
1969 Chevy C30 Rollback Tow Truck -- 383 stroker, 4L80E
2011 Chevy Caprice PPV 9C3 6.0L
1995 Chevy Caprice 9C1
1994 Chevy Caprice 9C1 #3
1995 Chevy Caprice Wagon #2
1995 Chevy Impala SS
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1969 Dodge Charger
1972 Chrysler Newport 2dr Hardtop (27K miles)

Plus others...

Last edited by storm9c1; 10-24-2013 at 05:55 PM.
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