Quote:
Originally Posted by watahyahknow
there spotweld drill bits available for when you want to save the metal behind the rusted piece
it only cuts the top metal leaving enough fles on the bottom one to weld the new piece on
it takes a little practice to know how deep to drill but other than that there nice tools to have
talking bout tools but not related to sheetmetal ......
i seen this today :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MyZEaPQinO0
its expensive but so is a gas rig and its a lot safer too you could basicly do this near a gasleak and nothing would happen unlike when using an open flame , as long as you dont damage the coil it will keep going too ans not run out of gas |
those are sweet !
Quote:
Originally Posted by duallyjams
Huh you made it look like a 15 min episode the slosh tubz channel.
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LOL...16 hours start to finish on all the floor work !
Quote:
Originally Posted by clemdaddy
nice work man... you got it going on.
got a few pass-side fenders to look at. and the wing to return... lets hook up this week, if not tomorrow.
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Thanks for all the help Clem !
Quote:
Originally Posted by jkeating1
In post #327--how did you know where the factory spot welds were? I doesn't look like they were still visible on the surface.
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run a grinder over the top and it will expose the low spots that are the spot welds !
Quote:
Originally Posted by sduckworth13
Metal work is looking great Mike.
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thanks man !
Quote:
Originally Posted by watahyahknow
you can make a quick pass over the surface with the grinder or a piece of sandaper and see te dimples the spotwelds leave behind on non mediablasted steel
when the material is blasted you just see them
it might be the lighting doesnt make the dimples show up
or they whent a little thick on the primer
usually there pretty clear te see
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Exactly !
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDaddyV
Very nice progress Mike! Keep it up. I'm hopefully gonna get started on my cab soon.
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Go Big Daddy !