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Old 01-11-2016, 02:44 PM   #38
[JP]
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Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Hampshire, UK
Posts: 182
Re: 1965 C10 Stepside working on her **England**

well, today when I got home had to test the washer pump, so played around with the twist bit and now that is dark I can see the lights dimming.. all works! excellent!!

On another note, I saw the washer switch was $80 from LMC and the heater switch another $80....
got a washer switch yesterday off ebay for $29.. and also won an auction for $29 with the heater switch, the cable, the support and the whole ducting! I dont need all of it, but I'm getting it all sent by someone who doesnt pay post (pays as if it was normal post in the UK) so... result!!!

anyway, to update and keep this thread informative, in case someone does a search on it, I'll add this here, the explanation on how to test the washer motor and pump.
Was written by the user quoted.



Quote:
Originally Posted by ray_mcavoy View Post
You're welcome!

Yes, to test the pump hook a fused +12V feed to the #2 "power" terminal. Then run a small jumper wire from the #4 "power" terminal over to one of the "washer" terminals (doesn't matter which one).

Then to simulate the 2-speed dash switch, you can use a couple of jumper wires. To run the motor on low speed, jumper both the #1 "high" and #3 "low" terminals to ground. Similarly, to operate the motor on high speed, only jumper the #1 "high" terminal to
ground (leaving #3 disconnected).

Note that these motors have a built-in park switch that will continue to run the motor after the switch is turned off and only stop once it reaches the parked position. But in order to test that feature, you have to ground the motor's metal case.

The washer is mechanically driven off the motor's gearbox. So to test the washer you have to run the motor on either low or high speed as described above. Then jumper the remaining "washer" terminal to ground. That should cause the washer solenoid to click and engage the pump drive mechanism. At that point, you can disconnect the ground jumper from the "washer" terminal and with the motor still running, the pump should continue to go through about 3 or 4 cycles before the pumping mechanism automatically disengages.

So I've done all he said and everything works.. even the pump is working, although it doesnt sound too strong, but then again it might be just the way it is... what do you guys think?

https://youtu.be/eDvaat7FBtY
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My 65 stepside build/work on thread - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=693138
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