Quote:
Originally Posted by swamp rat
On a stock setup (should be the same with the HEI) there is a lead coming off the switch that will be hot when the key is on the ON position, locate that wire ether under the hood OR just remove the switch from the dash and test it there, turn the switch to ON, then jiggle the switch and see if the light go's out or flashes intermittently, if it does get a switch.
Make sure the PO did use fuel line from the tank to the pump, I have seen cases where non fuel rubber line was used and it was ok at first but it would soften then the vacuum created would collapse the hose.
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Took the connection off the back of the switch and the spades where burnt and slightly melted, the batt spade was corroded and slightly broke off looks like it was loose and arcing. I installed a new switch and it hasn't quit on me yet. I couldn't even get it to start before I replaced the switch. I could keep it running if I kept the key in the start position but then it would spin the starter the whole time too sooo....... it was a pain to get the lock cylinder out even after I pushed the pin in ans turned it counterclockwise it felt like it was glued in there. Once I got the chrome trim ring all the way unthreaded I yank on it from the back and finally broke free. Plus the new switch had the grooves slightly different that the old so I had to take my angle grinder to the "cup" so it would fit together.
I will check into the fuel line, but she told me she bought a kit from LMC that had everything she needed to replace it to the fuel pump.