[MagmaJct]

I suspect with the deep freeze across much of the U.S., and it being Christmas, you're likely to get few responses.

My material is not available at the moment, so I'll give you my $0.02 without those aids.

But, looking at your pictures, it seems your engine room wiring has been "modified".

So, no power to the starter nor to the coil? Let's take this one step at a time.

1. The engine has a large gauge wire connecting it to the negative terminal on the battery?

2. The starter solenoid has a large gauge wire connected to the positive terminal on the battery?

3. The starter solenoid has a small gauge wire connected to the "start" position of the ignition switch? Keep in mind, on the stock starter, there were at least two small terminals. One goes to the coil during starting. (We'll not worry about that terminal at the moment, just make sure you connect the correct terminal to the "start" position on the ignition switch.)

That should get the starter cranking. The next set is to set up the coil.

4. The coil "negative" should be connected to the points, or points equivalent in the distributor. If your distributor has an electronic points replacement module, it'll need power!

5. The coil "positive" needs to be connected to the "on" position on the ignition switch. However, with most coils, to prevent excessive current from damaging the points, some sort of ballast resistor must be used. The stock wiring had a length of resistance wire in lieu of a ballast resistor. If your resistance wire has been replaced with a conventional wire, you'll have to provide a ballast resistor unless there is no need for it.