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Old 09-02-2017, 01:41 AM   #286
HO455
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Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 10,885
Re: Working Man's Burbon

For the front panel I used a different process. I made a 7" long full width template of the front edge. My two original front panels were either pretty distorted (Photo 1) or had missing pieces and I wasn't confident in getting a good pattern. After getting it trimmed to size it was simple to measure from the back edge of the template to the bow and then lay out the cut lines on the back side of the next panel. This ended up being the easiest panel as I had the correct width for the back edge and the template for the front. It only took two fittings and it was done. Snapping the plastic support trim was difficult with both panels in place and no way to access the back of the bow. Once that was done it was just a matter of laying out the last three screws and installing them.
The one screw in the back that was so far off that the hole wasn't covered by the finish washer I filled in with some white bathroom caulk. The sliver that broke off the rear bow I used heavy clear packing tape and carefully taped it back in place. You have to look to find it. Now if I only had the rest of the missing slivers.
I was surprised that the FRP shows a kind of diamond pattern when installed that you don't see when it is on the bench or leaning on the wall.
I had set up a work bench using a large cardboard box. I had a fair amount of ink from the printing on the box transfer to the FRP during the cutting process. I recommend using cardboard that has no printing on it. The printing on the PVC pipe I used as a support did the same until I taped it up.
And the best part of the whole project is I have two pieces of FRP and the H channel strips to return.
Well I did try to use one of the H striped to make a more finished look across the back by having it hook on the sheet metal in the center as well as the FRP. But on each side I would have had to cut half back off the rear and then heat the channel and form it on a pattern to match the curve of the rear panel. But for a working Burban I decided it was way too much work. It took me an hour just to hand form a prototype let alone the finished product, but I think it is entirely doable.
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Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help.
RIP Bob Parks.
1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo
If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place
The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377
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