Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich69shortfleet
I was in the same situation a while back. I spoke with a highly experienced and highly regarded rear end guy and he said to simply torque the pinion nut to 150 lb/ft and be on my way. It takes a LOT more torque than 150 lb/ft to crush the crush sleeve so at 150 lb/ft you will not affect the crush sleeve or alter the pinion depth.
One thing that is VERY important is that you clean the threads on the nut and threads on the pinion. Make sure that any and all old threadlocker has been removed and that there are no nicks or damage to the threads. Then, using a quality high strength threadlocker reassemble and torque to 150 lb/ft. If you haven't done so, adding a touch of RTV to the splines on the yoke will help prevent a leak via the splines which can appear like a pinion seal leak in the future.
I have to stress, be sure to clean the threads very well. Leave no residue behind. Did I mention you need to clean the threads? Any remaining old threadlocker can wildly affect getting the proper preload via the torque setting. Don't forget to clean the threads.
I have had to do this three times over the years chasing a leaking pinion seal. I've had no problems with the rear end and it remains as quiet as when it was new. I have hauled and towed plenty with no issues so it is clear I got good advice and have not altered the pinion depth in any way.
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This is how I’ve done a few as well. Never had one problem with bearing or gear wear doing it this way.