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Old 02-20-2019, 12:18 AM   #156
Vintage Windmills
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Prior Lake, MN
Posts: 4,305
Re: K30 Downgrade to Cummins Project

Quote:
Originally Posted by randy500 View Post
I started reading your build a couple weeks ago, I like it.

Looks like you will have to change water necks for belt clearance.
When I put the ac on mine I tried the tensioner up high like you have yours sitting (4bt style) I hade very little belt clearance and the belt length had to be spot on, took a bunch of fitting and belt searches and in the end the tensioner did not tension the ac compressor enough which caused it to chip from belt skipping and when that happens The tensioner has wild adjustment fluctuations. It was jumping crazy back and forth trying to keep tension.

I read it’s best to have the tensioner last in-line and that’s what I did, I put it down by the frame rail, fixed the problem.

You have probably already looked it up but a 1st gen fan hub will move the fan up and center I believe, it also gives you .75” or so of more fan to radiator clearance, the pulley is different from 2ng gen so you need it with the fan hub.
Thanks Randy for the good info. You;re right about the tensioner placement. I have redesigned it to have an idler pulley rigidly mounted by the water neck and the tensioner down by the frame rail. Below is kind of a mockup showing where things will be. I think there will still be enough wrap angle on the crank pulley, that is my only concern at this point.

Also shown is a pic of my machined DOM and steel plate solution that will do the same thing as the 1st gen intercooled fan hub mount.

Quote:
Originally Posted by randy500 View Post

As far as your home made bracket...if you can somehow duplicate the lower compressor bolt centerline to above the waterneck it will all line up when installed. I think you could fasten the existing bracket to a bench, find or attach a measuring point and modify away.
Maybe you Could make a flat plate for the ac compressor that mounts to the lower bolt holes with spacers and hole that clears the waterneck?
You can ballpark the lower alternator mount and adjust with shims or spacers to get the centerline right.
Yep, I put a straightedge from another pulley on the engine and measured off that to set the distance for offset. My bracket ties to the engine in two spots and the bolt hole on the lower waterneck that the tensioner used to go into. I think I can do an angle iron bracket off the old compressor block mount holes for the belt tensioner.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher View Post
Jud, the only one I have is on my Longhorn. I'll dig through my stash and see what else I have. I used to have a couple weird ones off of 4BT's.
No worries, I want with the DOM and plate fabrication. The fan is now about 2 inches higher and 1.25" towards passenger side compared to than the 2nd gen position. Its weird the passenger side shift works better with the 2nd gen fan shroud, rad and radiator hose setup. I don't know if my hoses are longer and need to be cut to length or what, but I expected the left right with all 2nd gen stuff to work best with the 2nd gen fan position!
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67 GMC K1500 Custom- 305V6 SM420, PTO, Ram Assist, yellow (the outcast) (project period correct upgrades)
67 GMC C2500 351V6 TH400, AC, PS, PB (can't decide what to do with. Update, decided to keep and will restore )
86 CHV K30 502 th400, apple red NEW
71 CHV K20 350 SM465, ochre (saved work truck)
71 CHV K20 292 SM465, white, tach, PTO, (future project)
72 CHV K20 350 350th, medium blue (project stocker)
01 CHV K2500hd crew, indigo blue

^3 dont run and the others don't see winter either
'86 K30 Cummins "Fireside" thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=649649
'71 K20 "get driveable" thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=590642
'72 K20 Build Thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=493477&page=6
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