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Old 07-16-2019, 12:12 AM   #462
HO455
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Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 11,268
Re: Working Man's Burbon

Okay on to installation. First thing I noticed is the new starter's solenoid connection is a 1/4" spade lug. (Red line on photo 1) That meant removing the ring terminal and replacing it. After crimping the new lug on it I soldered the connection to be sure I won't be having problems down the road. Plus I got to use my new soldering iron!
Following the directions (photo 2) I checked the clearance between the flywheel and the starter drive gear. (Photo 3) The specified clearance is .100 +/- .040. Eyeballing the gap it looked on the close side of the specification (.060). Using a .032 and a .028 feeler guage I ascertained the gear was too close to the flywheel. (Photo 4 green circle) Pulled the starter out and went over the instructions again to make sure I understood the next steps.
They called out removing the 3 starter mount bolts (photo 5 green lines. The yellow Tee handle Allen wrench goes to the third bolt ) then separate the mount from the starter nose and adding a shim washer. It seemed straightforward so I dove in. Things started to go wrong on step two. Of course you won't find out until you get to step 5 and you realize that the starter nose and the mount will not bolt up correctly. The instructions should say add the extra gasket (Not actually a gasket but an aluminum spacer/ shim) to the existing gasket so the outside of the starter nose will be spaced out the same distance that the bearing is after adding the second shim washer.
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Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help.
RIP Bob Parks.
1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo
If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place
The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377
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