Thread: 1950 Build
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Old 02-04-2022, 10:48 AM   #19
dsraven
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: calgary alberta
Posts: 7,878
Re: 1950 Build

sorry, I just went back and checked the first post where you tell your plans. I must have been just looking at the pics and missed the writing part.
if you havent done a MII before my tips would be to decide on the stance you want first so you an get the rake angle of the frame and get the frame set up on some sturdy stands and dialed in for level side to side and rake angle fore to aft. try to position the stands so they will support the frame well and not allow movement but also so they will not be in the way when doing the work. I use a cheap digital torpedo level sitting on top of a 4 ft level when needed for extra length. I know some will say thats not required and a bubble level is all you need. true likely but I tried both ways just to see how accurate a bubble level can be so I levelled it up with the bubble then used the digital and it was out a few degrees. if you are ok with that then go for it. the front end alignment guy uses digital tools so he may not be your friend when the time comes, haha. do the frame starightness, squareness and sag checks and then whatever work is needed to get things right before moving forward from there. I suggest to do a quick read on the heidts tech site where there is an article on understanding IFS just so you know and understand how it all works together and should look when done. the article is found in their online caalogue in the tech section I believe. cant hurt to check it out. when you are done the cross member and suspension mock up your lower control arms should be level with the ground side to side and for to aft when at ride height. ride height can be "kept" using some threaded rod to span where the shocks bolt on. tis is a great time to use that digital level on the control arm and also the brake rotor for adjusting the upper control arm in order to ensure there is ample adjustment available for alignment later. I usually tack the cross member in, mock up all the parts and then assemble the front clip to ensure the axle center line is where you like it with the correct diameter of tire set on to show how it fits in the wheel opening of the fender.
just some ideas if you haven't done this sort of thing before. take it or leave it. like someone said above, build it like you want it not how everybody else likes. just build it safe. take pics as you take things apart so later you can reference them. just in case you end up having to leave the project for a bit and then time goes by. in the end, have fun with it.
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