Well I got it off.
Took two different days. The second day, I got comfortable with 3 black t-shirts on. [Carport concrete was cold.] Rubbed vasoline on my hands and forearms. Found a chunk of 4x4'' wood, for a headrest, and got down to it. Screws are 5/16-24 with a 1/2'' hexhead. I used a variety of 1/2'' wrenches -- a Craftsman stubby [~4''], a Pittsburg [5''], a Proto [8''] a Banana wrench with a 1/2'' box on one end, and after some clearance, a curved Gearwrench with ratcheting action. [On the last bolt, of course.]
With an old ball pien hammer handle thru the U-Joint brearing cap holes, I was able to reach around with my array of wrenches, and turn each bolt 1/6th rotation at a time. If I got cramped, I tried a different wrench.
I never thought of pulling the hump. With 2 jerryrigged bucket seats and the center console, and some ancient dark blue carpeting, that would be compounding the hassle.
The capscrews from the U-Joint mounted on the front of the transfer case are too long to come out. I took the severed head of the Cardan carrier into AutoZone and got some 5/16-24 torque nuts to match the female holes so the captured capscrews in the transfer case mount would be secured. While I couldn't find a way to get them out without messing with the transfer case, I wasn't sure they wouldn't be beaten to death if loose on a rotating assembly or otherwise work their way out and cause some FOD damage somehow.
This way, they shpuld be in good shape to reattach a new Prop Shaft.
Cheapest Prop Shaft assembly I've seen is RockAuto's Cardone at $290, they have another higher grade line at $390. Jeg's has a Yukon Gear part for $650.
For now I can only afford to limp around in 2 wheel drive.
