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Re: Question for the Electrical Gurus; Distributer not getting juice during cranking.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RichardJ
IBelieve it or not 6Volt batteries actually cranked the engine and still supplied enough voltage to the distributor to start the engine. Imagine that. 5.0 volts to the coil and the plugs still fired to start the engine.
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Depends on the engine and ignition components, I guess. The 64 GTO I mentioned had an OE distributor with HEI internals (Dave's Small Body HEI), but the installer did not know about the under-dash resistance wire between ignition switch and coil. That resulted in around 8-9 volts reaching the coil.
The engine was hard to start when cold, and very hard to start when warmed up. Also the engine did not have the performance you'd expect out of a Tri-Power GTO. Bypassing the resistance wire put full battery voltage on the coil, which solved the start and performance problems. So while the engine may start with 8 volts or less, that doesn't mean it will run good. It's kind of like using a flashlight with old batteries. You will get some light, but not the full potential of the flashlight. 
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Mike
1969 C10 LWB -- owned for 34 years. 350/TH350, 3.08 posi, 1st Gen Vintage Air, AAW wiring harness, 5-lug conversion, 1985 spindles and brakes.
1982 C10 SWB -- sold
1981 C10 Silverado LWB -- sold, but wish I still had it!
1969 C10 (not the current one) that I bought in the early 1980s. Paid $1200; sold for $1500 a few years later. Just a hint at the appreciation that was coming.
Retired as a factory automation products salesman.
Worked part-time over the years for an engine builder and a classic car repair shop.
Member here for 23 years! This is the very first car/truck Internet forum I joined. I still used a dial-up modem back then!
Last edited by MikeB; 03-08-2023 at 01:35 PM.
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