[WorkinLonghorn]

Originally Posted by PbFut

Couple things going on here.
1 HEI system often fail (at the worst time) if you don't provide a full 12v while running. Long term exposure to low voltage burn up the trigger curcuit. That is why it is recomended the resister wire be abandond.
2 There are 3 auxiliary pins on the fuse block.
Full time hot even with key in off position.
Hot in run and start poition.
Hot only in run poition.
2 common aftermarket upgrades are often not connected correctly. HEI needs a new wire direct to the run start pin. This avoids the resister wire and need for the jumper at the solenoid. Be sure it is not connected to full time jot pin or you will run down the battery.
Elec fans need to be connected to the run only pin. Think radio circuit. Doing so drops power to various devices not absolutely needed during cranking. Aftermarket fan draw a lot of juice so this trick help on hot days when cracking is already stressed from hot tight engine and heat soked starter.
To the OP, I would simply run a new wire direct to the run start pin with a inline fuse close to the fuse block pin. This eliminates any issues with damaged wires and simplifies the circuit. I beleive the resister wire was used to protect the points from burning.

Wish I knew where that "hot in run and start position" pin was. I guess I'll have to start checking/ The thing is, it always worked just fine plugged into the "Ign" pin on fuse block. Now it doesn't get current during "start". Thx. BA