Quote:
Originally Posted by K10-Kansas
I've got my K10 up on stands because I've been working on the brakes. I think I'm done and was testing. In reverse my passenger rear spins and when I apply the brakes, the passenger rear stops and the driver's rear starts spinning.
In neutral the driver's rear spins and both stop when I put on the brakes.
In drive the driver's rear spins and when I put on the brakes, the driver's stops and the passenger's starts spinning.
I may be remembering some of this wrong. Is this normal? I bought this truck a year ago and drove it onto a trailer and then off before I began replacing and fixing things so I've never really drive it or and older truck for that matter.
|
what 'work' were you doing on the brakes?
what were you testing?
how did the brakes perform before you started your work?
please don't take this the wrong way but;
1 nothing in your pictures looks remotely like it was worked on recently
2 your randomly oriented pictures with the edges chopped off are difficult to follow
3 shoe backings look dinged up / damaged in a few spots, like they're not entirely concentic
can you post just one picture of each side, entire backplate in the shot, and both right side up?
that would make positive hardware verification more accurate
my initial observations;
agree with above, severe corrosion needs to be cleaned up at all of the contact points before any expectations of proper operation
those wheel cylinders look poor, the right side piston actuator stems specifically look heavily corroded
at minimum remove both wheel cylinders and take them apart to make sure they're clean inside the boots, free of moisture/corrosion, and pistons slide smoothly in the bore
caution in case this crosses your mind - do not actuate wheel cylinders with hydraulic system while drums are off
while cylinders are off, also inspect hydraulic line connections for signs of moisture/corrosion
wheel cylinders can be attacked by water through contaminated brake fluid, water intrusion through boots and piston seals, or both
brake fluid is hygroscopic - absorbs moisture, that's why only fresh sealed containers should be used and old fluid flushed < 10 years for optimal performance, more frequent for most modern systems
visible corrosion would more likely be environmental, operating in wet locations, high humidity climate, coastal areas, salted roads, etc.
100% of the hydralic brake's force comes from the wheel cylinder
if they're working, and shoes are not frozen to the backplate and adjusted as close the drums as you're describing, they have little choice but to work when hydraulic force is applied
another possible cause of the symptoms you're describing switching sides is air in the rear brake line before or near the tee
have you fully bled the entire hydraulic system? probably should have asked that first but figured you'd be past that by now but just in case
do both rear brakes hold firm when you apply the parking brake?
another word of caution - do not run drivetrain at high speeds off the ground and make rapid brake applications
that type of sudden stop can stress or break u-joints, pinions, gear teeth, etc. as opposed to tire resistence with weight of vehicle on the ground
it's worse than locking up the brakes while driving, tire friction on the road dampens the lockup somewhat, although those same components can fail in that situation as well
a smooth moderate power brake is a better way to pre-test off the ground before road testing
hopefully something there rings a bell with what led you to start working on the brakes and leads you to the cause of your symptoms and the solution
please keep us posted on your findings - good luck!