Quote:
Originally Posted by Killer Bee
first off, I highly recommend oem steel everywhere possible for several obvious reasons. If you can work them in with a little gentle massaging, I recommend finishing the project with them
I previously wasn't a huge fan of nicopp but several of my mechanics at work have used it for line replacements where oem was unavailable and steel line would be very difficult and time consuming. in all cases it worked well with zero failures
couple summers ago I had a brake line in one of my longhorns spring a leak just before a show. I would have needed three sticks of available steel tubing to span the frame so I opted to give the nicopp a try. Made it full length in one shot, no extra unions. It turned out well and was extremely easy to work with and routed safely through factory locations.
get yourself a decent flaring tool kit, tubing cutter, deburing tool, and a handful of flare nuts and you're in business
no tubing benders necessary, bends easily by hand. only drawback is getting it to lie straight as it comes off a roll.
now I'm not advocating for nicopp aftermarket over factory steel but I wouldn't be afraid to use it if needed
good luck! |
The drawback you mentioned about getting straight runs off a roll is easily defeated unless you are weaving it through the frame right off the roll. An old timer showed me to take a piece any length, clamp one end in a bench vise and the other free end with an old vice grip. Hammer the vise grip holding the free end to stretch the length of tubing. With each blow you'll see the waves coming out. Once it's straight enough for your needs unclamp it and cut the ends off with a tubing cutter as you would with any job you plan to flare. Sounds jenky but it works and I've used it on pieces that I've bent and messed up and saved.