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Old 04-19-2024, 04:00 PM   #2
Roostre
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Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: St. James, MN
Posts: 161
Re: Floor replacement tips/tricks for a factory install

I am (finally) about to do a complete floor on my cab. I have bracing welded into my cab already, a couple of pieces of wood screwed to the front brace to set the front level of the new floor, and my rocker panels removed. My plan is to cut the old floor out this weekend. I am very fortunate in that I have an overhead chain hoist in my shop. I run a strap through my door openings and am able to lift it straight up. My intention is to use my plasma cutter to cut about a half inch away from the spot weld seams on the front and back. I will then lift the cab off and have plenty of room to cut the spot welds and remove the rest of the floor. I hope my aftermarket floor will be straight enough that I can then set the cab right back down on it. I will then replace the bottoms of my A and B pillars before I re-install the cab floor. I'm toying with the idea of bonding the front and rear seams with a 3M structural adhesive rather than trying to spot weld. That decision will likely come down to how well the floor fits to the cab in those seams.

I've put a lot of thought into this and I think that, while it seems like an intimidating task, I don't think it will end up being too bad. I've actually been putting this off for a few years to decide the best way to do it and to patch the firewall, kick panels, and pillars to try to get the best chance of getting the floor in correctly.

The replacement floor I have has an e-coat primer on it. I will likely just scuff it and spray some Rustoleum tractor paint on it to give it some protection from the elements. That e-coat isn't really meant to stand up to sunshine. I'm going for a driver to have fun with, not a brand new restoration. Knowing me, I would be too worried about a chip or scratch to enjoy something like that.
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