Quote:
Originally Posted by ChiefRocka
To each is own...but I'm going to have to disagree with you on whats "right".
I have need dropping vehicles now for about 16 yrs...(not too long, I still have alot to learn  ).....but if done correctly, spring modification will not affect the ride as dramatic as you say.
What I recommend to my customers on a budget, is pull some 3/4 or 1-ton front springs from the wrecking yard (cheap), cut a 1 1/2 to 2 coils max, and remove the bumpstop mount on the lower a-arms. (this will give you the ride back you lost from modifing the suspension position). By running a heavier spring rate on a 1/2 ton, you still retain some "strength" when you cut them down...versus cutting a stock 1/2 ton spring...
Combine that with a dropped spindle (yes there is a cost there), and a nice set of oil shocks (oops, another cost there) and you WILL HAVE an excellent ride.
Now, as far as suspension geometry, any qualified ASE certified alignment shop CAN realign the truck back into spec. If you notice, there is plenty of stud there to get the front wheels back out to correct camber.....
Otherwise, the channeling looks good man
Good Job !!! |
Thanks!!!
I'm with ya on that long term stuff... I lowered my first square body back in 1985/1986. I've heated springs, cut springs, used 4 cylinder or 6 cylinder springs in V8 cars, used aftermarket springs, etc... I may not have chosen the correct words when I said it messes up the suspension geometry - not that an allignment can't bring the caster/camber/toe in back into the right settings, but it does cause you to have a more limited range of adjustment, and the biggie for me is that lowering with springs causes the vehicle to have a limited amount of travel in the suspension. Removing the bump stop does increase this but it is a work-around, a band-aid type of adjustment.
I know that you can get an excellent ride with a good spring/shock combination. Many things are adustable.
My thoughts with this were to drop the truck and retain factory suspension completely. Sort of a best of both worlds scenario. There are compromises elsewhere that I have to deal with though. I am not saying this is the best option for everyone, or even many people at all. But for some in certain situations, this is the best answer.
I would like to get a squishier ride in the rear still. It is really bouncy like it is. I am hoping that adding the fuel tank behind the rear wheels will help that some.
I think that what you are advising your customers to do is probably right on for them in their situations, and it would be for me in a different situation also.
BTW, I have front springs off of a 1988 Suburban (still square body) with somewhere around 1 coil removed - did that to bring the front down so it was not higher than the rear several months back. So that was my starting point with this one.