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Yerboogieman · 09-02-2022, 01:03 AM

I finally got around to pulling my Suburban out of storage. Fresh battery, dumping a can of fuel in it and a little down the carb and it fired right up. It ran out of fuel as we were pulling it out of the trailer and into the unit. It was leftover leaded race gas anyway.

I pulled it out back in January or February and put a few gallons in it. That wasn't enough. I ran out of fuel pulling out of storage. It is still over 100 degrees in Phoenix right now. Glad my dad followed me, he grabbed the gas can and picked up 5 gallons for me.

Took it to work this morning. This was the longest drive it's taken in about 7 years. 21 miles. Performed perfect, shifted through the gears, plunked down into overdrive at exactly 50mph, but maaaaan I need to look into the brakes. I think the booster is shot or the hoses swell when I brake. I'm thinking of picking up a hydroboost assembly from a late model and bigger discs for the front, discs for the rear and braided brake hoses. I've always hated the one inch of pedal travel in these trucks and that giant ugly booster. Looking at my 2008 Duramax (Remember at the beginning when I said I wouldn't buy a new truck? *rolls eyes*) the systems haven't changed much. The booster mounting looks similar, the power steering pump is practically the same. It should go in with relative ease. I wouldn't be against any input in that department.

Before anything else, I'm gonna be fixing a small fuel leak from the fuel filler, a timing cover leak, double check the TV cable adjustment, and installing my seats from a 2015 BMW X5.

They're from a 3-row optioned X5 so the backseat has real brackets, tilt forward, and fold flat. They're heated, cooled, and fully electric. What comes with fully electric is the CANbus issue. When they receive power they will work for about 10 minutes until power is removed and reapplied. I'd prefer to adjust the seats as needed without cycling the key. I'll figure that out, probably with a Raspberry Pi. I was brainstorming and thinking about using a Raspberry Pi to monitor vitals like temps, pressures, A/C, fans, lights, etc. I'm just not sure yet. Maybe a Holley EFI will do CAN signals.

09-02-2022, 01:03 AM	#28
Yerboogieman Registered User Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Auburn, Wa Posts: 93	Re: 1971 Suburban 4x4 build "The Big Ugly" I finally got around to pulling my Suburban out of storage. Fresh battery, dumping a can of fuel in it and a little down the carb and it fired right up. It ran out of fuel as we were pulling it out of the trailer and into the unit. It was leftover leaded race gas anyway. I pulled it out back in January or February and put a few gallons in it. That wasn't enough. I ran out of fuel pulling out of storage. It is still over 100 degrees in Phoenix right now. Glad my dad followed me, he grabbed the gas can and picked up 5 gallons for me. Took it to work this morning. This was the longest drive it's taken in about 7 years. 21 miles. Performed perfect, shifted through the gears, plunked down into overdrive at exactly 50mph, but maaaaan I need to look into the brakes. I think the booster is shot or the hoses swell when I brake. I'm thinking of picking up a hydroboost assembly from a late model and bigger discs for the front, discs for the rear and braided brake hoses. I've always hated the one inch of pedal travel in these trucks and that giant ugly booster. Looking at my 2008 Duramax (Remember at the beginning when I said I wouldn't buy a new truck? rolls eyes) the systems haven't changed much. The booster mounting looks similar, the power steering pump is practically the same. It should go in with relative ease. I wouldn't be against any input in that department. Before anything else, I'm gonna be fixing a small fuel leak from the fuel filler, a timing cover leak, double check the TV cable adjustment, and installing my seats from a 2015 BMW X5. They're from a 3-row optioned X5 so the backseat has real brackets, tilt forward, and fold flat. They're heated, cooled, and fully electric. What comes with fully electric is the CANbus issue. When they receive power they will work for about 10 minutes until power is removed and reapplied. I'd prefer to adjust the seats as needed without cycling the key. I'll figure that out, probably with a Raspberry Pi. I was brainstorming and thinking about using a Raspberry Pi to monitor vitals like temps, pressures, A/C, fans, lights, etc. I'm just not sure yet. Maybe a Holley EFI will do CAN signals. __________________ -Taylor 1971 Chevy Suburban 4x4 Build Thread Last edited by Yerboogieman; 09-02-2022 at 01:23 AM.