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Old 02-28-2021, 01:18 AM   #93
caseyjones
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 512
Re: 1964 C10 Survivor

More rust repair this week. I improved the fender-to-door gap by grinding down the folded-over edge, welding it back up, grinding and using a file to get a flat, straight edge. It's better but not perfect.

I also tackled the left side toeboard. I thought just skimming it with epoxy or something to fill what I thought were just a lot of pinholes, but the rust was worse than I thought. After I hit it with the wire wheel on the angle grinder I knew it had to come out.

The kick panel was rotten on the edge too, so it made it even more obvious that cutting it out would be best.

I was able to weld up some of the stuff closer to the center of the truck, so my cut only had to be on the outboard side of the stiffening rib. I still have a few holes to fill...if the floor is too think I'll have to make a pretty simple small patch.

I made the replacement patches out of leftovers from my floorboard patch panels, made for good hammer and dolly practice.


I welded it in from under the truck, just felt like it was easier to reach and get the grinder in there. Honestly turned out way better than I thought it would, and is definitely good enough for this truck. I am a little bummed that I lost the depression for the dimmer switch but it wasn't salvageable and I wasn't going to try to form that by hand.

I'll have to fill those few holes and then I can move on to the fender, and then I'm done with the rust!

Last edited by caseyjones; 02-28-2021 at 01:34 AM.
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