Next up was the stereo. This was equipped with the BOSE system, RSE, and a DVD player - I wanted to add a backup camera but dont like accessory monitors for cameras (unless they're for cameras on a trailer or something) - the dash is already cluttered enough for me. So, since outwardly the radio is pretty worn out anyway, I figured I might as well add some more functionality as well.
Here's the old:
As I always do, I laid out all of my harnesses and made my own solder diagram.
In this case, I wanted to retain as much factory function as I could - that means as much of the RSE function as possible, the factory amplified BOSE system, steering wheel controls, door chimes, and retained accessory power. All of that required an interface module - not my first time with this. I did something similar with an iDataLink in my wifes Toyota 4Runner. I like the iDataLink more, I think, because its more easily customizable, but the RP5-GM11 module is also customizable. All I had to do on this one was set the "radio manufacturer code" which is just a little dial to what was specified in the manual. For my Jensen, it falls under "other" which was number 7.
Once I had double checked all of my solder sheet - this one was simple, basically just match wire colors except for the parking brake signal, which was pink -> light green for my harness - I got to soldering. I don't always solder automotive connections (instead using a tight hook splice for strength and good conductivity but maintaining some flexibility,) but I find radio connections hold up well when soldered so I do with those. This little cheap solder station and my cheap adjustable soldering iron works great for this small gauge wire. Using 63/37 solder.
From there it was just removing the factory stereo, installing the side bracket plates from the install kit, and bolting it back in place after testing everything.
It fits nicely, is really shallow so didn't require any cutting of the rear brace in the dash, and overall looks pretty slick in the dash. This is a "No Disc" model - so it just does Radio, bluetooth, and both CarPlay/Android Auto. I DID lose the wired connections to the RSE, but the kids only ever use the wireless headphones anyway, and really only for the DVD player.
Up next is the backup camera, which I totally forgot to take photos of. But installation was simple - Its a license plate bracket camera, to a wireless transmitter, and a wireless receiver plugs into the camera input on the back of the stereo.
I hid the transmitter inside the passenger taillight bucket, behind the housing, and zip tied it to the internal bracing. I did a T-Splice into the reverse light wires to provide power and ground - and the receiver gets its signal from the "reverse signal" wire in the factory radio harness. Easy peasy. I ran the cable from the camera up into the taillight housing, utilizing the cable loom that GM put on the tail light harness to keep it protected. Super easy. My only concern is breaking the camera mount when loading items in the back, but I'll just have to be extra cautious. This camera doesnt have the highest resolution, but its far better than not having anything when I have to back into spots at most of my customer sites.
And, CarPlay works great (since I'm currently using an iPhone) - I prefer Google Maps to built in nav systems that never stay up to date, even if you load new maps every time they're released.
For this being on the low end, cost wise, of touch screen CarPlay compatible stereos with a shallow install depth, I am actually really impressed with it. See the parts list below for the complete list of things I needed. I purchased from Crutchfield because I have always had excellent experience with them, but you can probably find this stuff cheaper elsewhere.
Jensen CAR70V
EchoMaster CAM-WLP EchoMaster CAM-WLP
Metra 95-2001 Dash Kit Metra 95-2001 Dash Kit
PAC RP5-GM11 Wiring Interface PAC RP5-GM11 Wiring Interface
The total came out to about $450 shipped and it arrived in less than a week.