The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network - View Single Post - 55.2-59 Wheelbase

dsraven · 03-28-2022, 10:49 AM

ok, gonna assume your chassis is done and the wheelbase is therefore roughly set with the exception of the rear axle because you have a 4 link rear suspension which can be adjusted slightly. do you have some pics of the frame without the body on top so we can see what you have to work with?
if the front end is already welded in then that is not moveable but if the rear is a 4 link then that is where you will need to get your wheelbase modification from. if you have made the frame to be 114" and now you are not too sure if that was the best for the "wheel in fender look" then changing the wheelbase would be best done at the rear.
I would say to install tires of the diameter you will end up with when done because the tire size makes a difference on how things looks in the wheel openings.
set the suspension up at the ride height you have dialed the geometry in for during your build and pin it there with some sort of link where the shocks will mount up so it stays at that height. usually the lower control arms are level when you look at them from the front and/or the side
set the frame up at the rake angle you want or you have built into the new frame when you set up the front end and welded it in
set the cab and front sheet metal on and adjust them fore to aft until you get the look you want in the tire to front fender. you may need to fab up some wooden blocks the right thickness so your cab will sit the correct height off the frame since your cab mounts are not part of the picture yet
set the box on at the correct dimension between the cab and nstall the rear fenders. stand back and see how you like the look of the rear wheels in the fender openings. if it isn't how you like it take a dimension on how much things will need to move to make it how you want it. the other thing you could do here, to make things the correct spacing like it would be stock, is get the original stock frame drawing out and get the dimension from the front cam mount to the box mounts and set the box at those dimensions, then do the same for the rear axle centerline. adjust the rear section of the frame accordingly or set up the 4 link bars to get that dimension as long as the C notch will allow that movement without the axle hitting the frame on a full suspension travel. it will be easier to adjust the rear frame section than it will be anything else unless you are OK with having larger gaps in the box to cab area
just my thoughts, it is your truck and your plan so you gotta do what you like
post up some pics of the bare frame if you can, as well as the full side of the truck if thats possible. maybe we can come up with some better ideas.

03-28-2022, 10:49 AM	#17
dsraven Registered User Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: calgary alberta Posts: 7,832	Re: Wheelbase ok, gonna assume your chassis is done and the wheelbase is therefore roughly set with the exception of the rear axle because you have a 4 link rear suspension which can be adjusted slightly. do you have some pics of the frame without the body on top so we can see what you have to work with? if the front end is already welded in then that is not moveable but if the rear is a 4 link then that is where you will need to get your wheelbase modification from. if you have made the frame to be 114" and now you are not too sure if that was the best for the "wheel in fender look" then changing the wheelbase would be best done at the rear. I would say to install tires of the diameter you will end up with when done because the tire size makes a difference on how things looks in the wheel openings. set the suspension up at the ride height you have dialed the geometry in for during your build and pin it there with some sort of link where the shocks will mount up so it stays at that height. usually the lower control arms are level when you look at them from the front and/or the side set the frame up at the rake angle you want or you have built into the new frame when you set up the front end and welded it in set the cab and front sheet metal on and adjust them fore to aft until you get the look you want in the tire to front fender. you may need to fab up some wooden blocks the right thickness so your cab will sit the correct height off the frame since your cab mounts are not part of the picture yet set the box on at the correct dimension between the cab and nstall the rear fenders. stand back and see how you like the look of the rear wheels in the fender openings. if it isn't how you like it take a dimension on how much things will need to move to make it how you want it. the other thing you could do here, to make things the correct spacing like it would be stock, is get the original stock frame drawing out and get the dimension from the front cam mount to the box mounts and set the box at those dimensions, then do the same for the rear axle centerline. adjust the rear section of the frame accordingly or set up the 4 link bars to get that dimension as long as the C notch will allow that movement without the axle hitting the frame on a full suspension travel. it will be easier to adjust the rear frame section than it will be anything else unless you are OK with having larger gaps in the box to cab area just my thoughts, it is your truck and your plan so you gotta do what you like post up some pics of the bare frame if you can, as well as the full side of the truck if thats possible. maybe we can come up with some better ideas.