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jarrodblake · 06-29-2018, 01:51 AM

Kind of a Big yet small update! Good news/ Bad news....

I will start with the small. Unfortunately I did not get the truck painted yet. I messed up my back the other week. I had a slipped disc pinching nerve so I was unable to do anything. I'm still not at 100% but I need to get the truck finished. So I started doing some light duty stuff. So I painted some suspension components. I decided to try hammerite braind paint. I was looking for something chip resistant yet cost effective. Hopefully this stuff holds up.

IMAG1705 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr

IMAG1706 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr

IMAG1709 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr

IMAG1710 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr

IMAG1731 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr

I also sprayed some bed liner on the cab floor.

IMAG1722 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr

So yesterday I decided I had rested enough but I probably should had rested a little while longer. So anyways I started on my flip front end conversion lol not really.

IMAG1718 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr

I found this when I removed the front end.

IMAG1717 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr

IMAG1720 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr

IMAG1721 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr

I removed the headers starter motor, trans mount bolts and drive shaft bolts.

IMAG1723 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr

I pulled the engine

IMAG1725 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr

IMAG1726 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr

I had to jack the cab up to clear the trans.

IMAG1727 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr

I proceed to build a engine test staind...

IMAG1729 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr

IMAG1728 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr

IMAG1732 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr

So why a engine test stand? Well some of you have see a Thread I created trying to decide and if I should convert my engine to EFI using the holley sniper system then turboing it down the road. Or swapping in a diesel engine. I was considering a 6.2 and turboing it as I can get a low mileage one for cheap. My other diesel option was a first gen Cummins with 270K that I cannot really afford but would be the most reliable out of the three options and get the best gas mileage out of the three, and would surprisingly cost less then the turbo EFI... Any ways I have been doing research on mainly the turbo efi and the 6.2 and a little on the cummins swap for a few months now and after reading thread after thread on the 6.2 and 6.5 engine destroying themselves I decided not to go with the 6.2.

So there I was its 4:30 am I can't sleep my back is killing me. I get on my laptop I can't stop thinking about what I should do. I need to finish the truck. The EFI turbo would cost more then a cumming swap but if I do the efi conversion first then turbo it down the road It wouldn't hurt my pockets as much at once. So I took some more medicine (by the way the side effects are super scary I stopped taking it last week after I looked up the side effects. they went something like this cannot drive or operate machinery, cannot consume alcohol, may cause dizziness, and (impaired judgment I think this one got me) may cause Death!) So anyways it's now 5 something and I just bought the cummins on ebay using paypal credit.

Here is a video of the engine running. The engine should be here monday or tuesday!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NunQ...ature=youtu.be

So back to the engine test stand I need to sell this engine to help pay for the swap. I figure a 1970 350 4 bolt main with 86k original miles should go for $550 maybe even $650 running on a engine test staind. The test stand may even help it sell faster as the can see that it runs I thought to myself. (On a side note if you noticed the engine test stand is made out of the channel that came with the truck that was used as the stakes in the first photo in the thread.) Well it turns out after I got it on the stand and start cleaning it up I notice the block is black and it looks to be original paint. I know the valve cover had been repainted blue as there was some orange paint under the blue. But it really started to bug me that the block was black and not orange. So I cleaned off the casting number and it says 14010 201 So looked up the numbers and wouldn't you know it its a 305. A 80-85 305 car & Truck 2-bolt Passenger stick. So I suppose everything happens for a reason. I am happy I ordered the cummins and not the efi system. I would have been pisst If I order the efi and started to turbo it and spent all that time and money to find out it was a 305.

So now I am trying to find as much info as I can on my swap.

This is my list so far.

I will build my own engine and trans mounts.

I will use the AA NV500 adapter for the first gen cummins.

I will swap the input shaft for the cummins shaft. But I will have to have the new input shaft retainer turned down on a lath as I have the 1995 trans. it has the correct gearing but the case is the old style.

The drive shaft has to be shortened but it was going to have to be anyways.

All new seals in the engine. I will probably rebuild the pump and turbo. I also have a Hx35 I may swap out.

I still need to do research on the gas pedal/ linkage.

I would like to install some kind of air shutdown/ off valve. As the first gens are known to runway. I wonder If I could use a exhaust cut out valve as a air shut off valve?

Can I use the stock radiator?

I will need to buy a intercooler and piping.

I will need to install a fuel return of some kind. Does a 72 fuel sending unit ue the same oms for the fuel gauge? I would also like to add a 50 gallon saddle tank as well.

What power steering lines will I need to use for the hydro boost?

Is the alternator internally regulated?

I will also replace the water pump.

Do the killer dowel pin fix.

Route the exhaust.

Also does anyone know if I can use a second gen cummins flywheel with the first gen engine adapter and starter?

06-29-2018, 01:51 AM	#39
jarrodblake Registered User Join Date: Sep 2017 Location: Patriot IN Posts: 163	Re: 1970 C30 Car hauler Buildish thread. Kind of a Big yet small update! Good news/ Bad news.... I will start with the small. Unfortunately I did not get the truck painted yet. I messed up my back the other week. I had a slipped disc pinching nerve so I was unable to do anything. I'm still not at 100% but I need to get the truck finished. So I started doing some light duty stuff. So I painted some suspension components. I decided to try hammerite braind paint. I was looking for something chip resistant yet cost effective. Hopefully this stuff holds up. IMAG1705 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr IMAG1706 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr IMAG1709 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr IMAG1710 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr IMAG1731 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr I also sprayed some bed liner on the cab floor. IMAG1722 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr So yesterday I decided I had rested enough but I probably should had rested a little while longer. So anyways I started on my flip front end conversion lol not really. IMAG1718 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr I found this when I removed the front end. IMAG1717 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr IMAG1720 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr IMAG1721 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr I removed the headers starter motor, trans mount bolts and drive shaft bolts. IMAG1723 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr I pulled the engine IMAG1725 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr IMAG1726 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr I had to jack the cab up to clear the trans. IMAG1727 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr I proceed to build a engine test staind... IMAG1729 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr IMAG1728 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr IMAG1732 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr So why a engine test stand? Well some of you have see a Thread I created trying to decide and if I should convert my engine to EFI using the holley sniper system then turboing it down the road. Or swapping in a diesel engine. I was considering a 6.2 and turboing it as I can get a low mileage one for cheap. My other diesel option was a first gen Cummins with 270K that I cannot really afford but would be the most reliable out of the three options and get the best gas mileage out of the three, and would surprisingly cost less then the turbo EFI... Any ways I have been doing research on mainly the turbo efi and the 6.2 and a little on the cummins swap for a few months now and after reading thread after thread on the 6.2 and 6.5 engine destroying themselves I decided not to go with the 6.2. So there I was its 4:30 am I can't sleep my back is killing me. I get on my laptop I can't stop thinking about what I should do. I need to finish the truck. The EFI turbo would cost more then a cumming swap but if I do the efi conversion first then turbo it down the road It wouldn't hurt my pockets as much at once. So I took some more medicine (by the way the side effects are super scary I stopped taking it last week after I looked up the side effects. they went something like this cannot drive or operate machinery, cannot consume alcohol, may cause dizziness, and (impaired judgment I think this one got me) may cause Death!) So anyways it's now 5 something and I just bought the cummins on ebay using paypal credit. Here is a video of the engine running. The engine should be here monday or tuesday! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NunQ...ature=youtu.be So back to the engine test stand I need to sell this engine to help pay for the swap. I figure a 1970 350 4 bolt main with 86k original miles should go for $550 maybe even $650 running on a engine test staind. The test stand may even help it sell faster as the can see that it runs I thought to myself. (On a side note if you noticed the engine test stand is made out of the channel that came with the truck that was used as the stakes in the first photo in the thread.) Well it turns out after I got it on the stand and start cleaning it up I notice the block is black and it looks to be original paint. I know the valve cover had been repainted blue as there was some orange paint under the blue. But it really started to bug me that the block was black and not orange. So I cleaned off the casting number and it says 14010 201 So looked up the numbers and wouldn't you know it its a 305. A 80-85 305 car & Truck 2-bolt Passenger stick. So I suppose everything happens for a reason. I am happy I ordered the cummins and not the efi system. I would have been pisst If I order the efi and started to turbo it and spent all that time and money to find out it was a 305. So now I am trying to find as much info as I can on my swap. This is my list so far. I will build my own engine and trans mounts. I will use the AA NV500 adapter for the first gen cummins. I will swap the input shaft for the cummins shaft. But I will have to have the new input shaft retainer turned down on a lath as I have the 1995 trans. it has the correct gearing but the case is the old style. The drive shaft has to be shortened but it was going to have to be anyways. All new seals in the engine. I will probably rebuild the pump and turbo. I also have a Hx35 I may swap out. I still need to do research on the gas pedal/ linkage. I would like to install some kind of air shutdown/ off valve. As the first gens are known to runway. I wonder If I could use a exhaust cut out valve as a air shut off valve? Can I use the stock radiator? I will need to buy a intercooler and piping. I will need to install a fuel return of some kind. Does a 72 fuel sending unit ue the same oms for the fuel gauge? I would also like to add a 50 gallon saddle tank as well. What power steering lines will I need to use for the hydro boost? Is the alternator internally regulated? I will also replace the water pump. Do the killer dowel pin fix. Route the exhaust. Also does anyone know if I can use a second gen cummins flywheel with the first gen engine adapter and starter? Last edited by jarrodblake; 06-29-2018 at 02:01 AM.