The next few steps I had to do multiple times, different ways. As I worked on one thing I figured out that something else needed to come before it and so on. So, after multiple test fits, this is what I came up with.
First up is installing the crankshaft position sensor. The factory engine setup utilizes several heat shields. This is important to protect sensors like this from extreme heat produced at the nearby exhaust. I won't be using any of the factory heat shields on my build, especially since I don't have any of it. I decided to go with stick on heat shielding instead. This version handles continuous temps up to 800°F. It was a bit tedious to splice so much for good coverage, but it will be worth the peace of mind. Installed the sensor and torqued to factory spec 18lb/ft.
Next up is the engine oil dip stick and tube. I originally bought a factory LS3 tube and dipstick, which is what Holley recommended for the oil pan that I'm using. However, when I tried to mock it up on this engine I ran into a few issues. The tube actually hit the starter, no matter what I tried. The other issue is the appearance. It sticks up way above the valve covers and has a huge yellow handle. So, I was in the market for something that worked better. What I came up with was a Lokar anchor-tight locking flexible engine dipstick. I went with the midnight series which gave it a nice black finish to match my theme. This had the look I was after and it gave me the clearance I needed for the starter. I had to sand the area in the engine block where the tube inserts. This gave me a nice area to apply some RTV, since this spot is prone to oil leaks. I applied the RTV around the base only and installed. I allowed it to dry for 24 hours before going to the next step.
Clearance!!! (Spoiler alert!)
