[Grizz1963]

Bought a few random bolts and Nyloc nuts this morning, £3.00 the lot, so replace some of the bolts on the car, may be that they are too big or thick to be honest, but then they can be added to the Quality Street tin of random fasteners.





Responses already received on application.

[quote author="@grizz" source="/post/2698096/thread" timestamp="1632044050"][quote author="@johnthesparky" source="/post/2698087/thread" timestamp="1632042539"]Not a straightforward answer to that I think. Mostly suspension uses 10.9 and 12.9 normally. This is stronger along the bolt but weaker in shear.
This is the tricky bit for me, as when I think suspension I imagine all the extra weird forces when you go through a pothole and up a kerb that would potentially add a shear force to it.

That’s why personally, because I don’t know better and am too lazy to work anything out, I’d match the original grade (but I think it would have been imperial? So the grades are different too, grade 5 and 7 normally I believe) my reasoning is that if it’s still on the road after 20 or 30 years it probably was about right. Other bolts will work but what happens when they actually fail

[/quote][quote timestamp="1632043687" source="/post/2698093/thread" author="@westbay"]No, bumpers, engine brackets (not engine mounts), seats but not seat belts, 'low' stress items ...

10.9 , steering, brakes, suspension, basically anything with a high stress rate ...[/quote]
Thanks guys.



So I restarted the Knotwheel of death….

Got spiked a couple of times, hey-ho.

It really cleaned up the welds nicely, removing flux etc too.

Plus removing all the burned, heat damaged primer.



Sacrilegious



Done, and very pleased with the finish.



Next up was a bit of playing around with @pauly ‘s roll bar from his Chevy.


Seat in place for perspective, as well as the screen.

It is clearly too wide as it is to be floor mounted, but will be once modified.

It will go 220mm don below the sill and also backwards, in line with the “B-Pillar” with a slight tilt backwards so you can get in and out of the seat without being a contortionist.

Make sense?

The top of the roll bar should be about 100mm (plus its own thickness)above the seats headrest once all are bolted down, and at the same height as the top of the windscreen.

Pics are just a basic mock up.







Last thing I checked yesterday was the width of the steel wheels planned for this car.

At 9” side to side, what is the minimum width one would start looking at, though that is not the objective.

And I certainly do not want a load of stretch like the tyres currently fitted to them.

I quite like a bit of chunky width.






Still got to decide what to do today, Sally is about to bead home, 2 miles down the road to work in her garden and cook Uncle Bobs dinners for the next couple of days.



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