So a few other notes:
1. I bought a brand new regulator from Classic Parts to do this test.
https://www.classicparts.com/1964-66...tinfo/18-730/# THis should not be necessary-your original regulator should work fine. I will try my origional once I put this one in. BTW, this is the passenger side regulator. The motor must be mounted other way for drivers side. Motor should always hang down in door.
2. The motor does not come with mating wiring harness. This would be a cool option. I soldered on my wires HOWEVER I Solder wires for a living, I have tools you do not. I suspect if one solders wires to this motor they will MELT the brushes and holders off the motor and kill it. SOLDER AT OWN RISK! I would rather find a way to make a connector.
3. When you mate teeth and drill holes, MAKE SURE YOU HAVE TIGHT TOLERANCES! screws should barely fit holes you drill so no slop! these teeth need to stay married together, however should not be so tight it binds.
4. I spent a fair amount of time with Die Grinder with cut-off wheel, cutting manual window crank gear and cover off regulator. I went back and made my hole flush and ground rough edges away around edge of hole at sector. WHen you dry fit motor into regulator and mate teeth, it should fit nice.
My next step is to mount in truck and test for real, and load test for failure. BTW, my total in cost for this door is about $100, BUT I BOUGHT NEW REGULATOR! DIY people should be able to recycle old regulator and just add motor.
DID I MENTION, I have done no testing on this? Please, if you try this, be aware, I have no hours or miles of testing to prove this even will last a WEEK! Do at your own risk (or peril!)*******.
One more note: Dorman motors are not known for reliability. Many people hate them, think they are junk. I cannot comment either way, never used one. There are plenty of other brands of re-pop motors, might be better will another brand. ALL cost about the same.