DRIVE PINION OIL SEAL, EATON H052 (Part 1 of 6)
I wasn't getting minor drips from the rear end, it was more like a gusher. It needed a new seal. After some research, this didn't seem to be too difficult to do. I just needed bigger tools, some education, and decent access, that’s all.
A fairly simple procedure according to the 1969 Chevrolet Truck Chassis Service Manual, Series 10-60, Rear Suspension and Drive Line 4-32 (whew).
Drive Pinion Oil Seal (Fig. 66)
Replacement
NOTE: The pinion oil seal may be replaced with the carrier assembly installed in the vehicle.
1. Disconnect propellor shaft and remove pinion flange and deflector.
2. Remove bolts retaining the oil seal retainer to carrier, and withdraw retainer from pinion.
3. Pry old seal from bore, using care so as not to damage the machined surface of retainer.
4. Thoroughly clean all foreign matter from seal contact area in retainer.
5. Pack the cavity between the seal lips with a high-melting point bearing lubricant, position seal on installer Tool J-22231 so that seal shoulders against installer drive surface.
6. Press seal into retainer until it bottoms against shoulder.
7. Carefully position seal retainer over pinion to prevent damage to seal, and torque retaining bolts to specifications.
8. Reinstall pinion flange and propellor shaft.
The Story follows:
Eatin’ Piņon Nuts
(by Jim H., title suggested by special-K)
In Service Manual order:
*NOTE: The pinion oil seal may be replaced with the carrier assembly installed in the vehicle.
But not on the ground with the bed on ! Personally, I wouldn’t want to try doing this with the vehicle on the ground and the bed in place…uh uh.
*1. Disconnect propellor shaft and remove pinion flange and deflector
Disconnecting the propellor shaft presented no problem. Removal of the pinion flange (aka yoke) involves removing the pinion nut. I found a couple of threads that discuss the issue of removing this stubborn fastener.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=275286
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=197837
Thanks especially to JAKES 68GMC (#14, Deep Creep), phantom dually (#15, heat), and special-K (#16, for eatin’ piņon nuts ! )
I decided to be conservative and gave myself four days to heat and soak before attempting to loosen the nut. I bought a can of Deep Creep (DC) and used a MAPP gas torch to heat the nut. I concentrated the heat on the nut as much as possible after which I applied DC. I periodically soaked the nut in DC until the next heat. I did this four times over the following days.