I got a lot done over the weekend, but I forgot to take a lot of pictures of it!
I first focused on getting the brake master in and getting the linkage working properly. I used a similar idea to this thread to make my brake system function, using the same bell crank concept.
http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...&postcount=324
I wanted to keep the push rod stock, so if I had to replace it in the future, it is just a bolt in affair. I did the same lowering the pedal hole by 1.5”, and it all seemed to work out well. The only difference is that I did not reuse another brake pedal. I reused the clutch and fabricated up arms to go with it. Same concept though.
Next I got onto the steering column. I got a flaming river direct fit column, and wouldn’t you know it, it was not a direct fit. It probably fit perfectly for the original non tilt, non automatic shift column, but of course, I changed all of that. So the larger diameter of the automatic shifter bell shaped portion of the column was hitting the opening in the dash. No biggie though. I just drilled new holes in the bracket about an inch towards the driver, and that gave me enough room to clear the bigger diameter.
Then I moved onto steering shaft.
The steering box is mounted on the inside of the Tahoe frame, and the outside of the original frame, so this changed the alignment of the shaft a bit. The shaft made some contact with the inner fender, but nothing a quick zip disc couldn’t take care of. I will make a little patch panel that bolts in place along with the other indent piece in the inner fender.
The Tahoe steering shaft is 1” double D, and the flaming river column is ¾ double D, so I just sleeved a piece of ¾” into a piece of 1”, and everything worked perfectly.
And with the column in place, I hooked up the transmission shift linkage. I was going to get the Lokar part, but then I got the knock off version, which is almost good, but not really. The Heim joints don’t have spacers with them, so the linkage binds instead of fully articulating. I whipped up some spacers on the lathe, which solved this issue.
Then I decided it was time for the fun parts. I bought a 3200 stall converter and a truck Norris cam. So I decided I was going to put these in the truck. After looking it all over, I decided it would be easier to pull the engine out instead of transmission, transfer case, driveshafts etc. So out came the engine. In went the new converter and cam, and back in it all went.
I then mounted the radiator. I got a direct fit rad from Entropy. Whish is a wonderful looking piece. And of course…not a direct fit either.
I had a conflict between the rad and the steering box, so I moved the rad up 1”, and it seems to work fine. I measured it out to make sure I don’t hit the hood, and I SHOULD have about an inch of clearance, but I wont know for sure until I hang the sheet metal back on.
Then I plumbed tranny cooler lines, fit the upper rad hose, and ripped out all the existing brake lines and ABS assembly. I also got rid of all the evap lines to the fuel tank.
So that is where we are at! Sorry for the lack of pictures. I will do better. I was just in full thrash mode and hardly even took enough time to eat, never mind take pictures.