Quote:
Originally Posted by Getter-Done
I have one of these.
Thanks for the info.
I will have to check mine out.
Especially those batteries.
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The battery pak is handy sometimes but they seem to be very very pricey for what you're getting.
I wouldn't count on one of these being serviceable as soon as you open the box.
If the seller hasn't put a new set of cells in the housing and included the AC power supply you'll have to get a battery pak welded and glued together or DIY, source an AC to 24vdc 100ma or better output power supply and, you'll also have electronics rework to do depending on how badly the battery juice damaged the board.
If you don't have the tools for welding up a battery pak just go to a Batteries Plus location that has the tools, nickel strips, and experience to do it right.
I found some pictures of that pak disassembled on my old phone FWIW.
I texted them to a buddy while I was repairing the corroded Molex connector and the damaged slide switch. I'd forgotten I took them.
There's a MOV on the board so they're apparently worried about electrons leaking places they're not supposed to.
Here are the slide switches. The replacement has a slightly taller slide.
The damaged old switch is on top of the warehouse pull baggie from Mouser.
This is the board repair in progress. It looks like I hadn't completely cleaned up the flux and I can't find a picture on that phone of the badly corroded Molex KK.156 jack still mounted on the board or the finished product. I'd guess I didn't take them.
Notice the PC board is slid in between the two rows of the DE15 plug and all 15 are soldered to the board. This makes the package much thinner than a board mount connector.
This is easily repairable 1970's & 1980's through hole tech. The diode is marked CR (Crystal Rectifier IIRC) on the silkscreen just like the good old days.
Here is the Molex KK.156 plug with new terminals attached to 20ga SXL wire and the the corroded terminals & crunchy PVC jacketed wire from the old furry battery pak that I'd just replaced.
The mouser pouch for the terminals is underneath with the part numbers readable. I usually keep a hundred or so of the KK.156 & KK.100 terminals in my arsenal.
