View Single Post
Old 12-02-2014, 12:31 AM   #305
ls1nova71
Registered User
 
ls1nova71's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Independence Mo
Posts: 4,118
Re: 67-72 Electric speedo

Quote:
Originally Posted by BigRed76 View Post
Has anyone found a paint that is the correct color for painting the new speedo numbers? I know ls1nova71 said he was just mixing paint to make the correct color, I'm just wondering if there's a premade color that will work...
I have never found anything that was an exact match, but then I'm picky, so I knew that mixing it would get the best results.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TBONE1964 View Post
Hi Eric,
I am finally building my first electronic speedometer conversion cluster for a customer and have some questions for you.

First off, I wanted to let you know that I have found a way that works well that eliminates the speedometer mounting plate. Of course it requires some fabrication to the stock tin but in the end it will be all one piece. Not to take away anything you have done, just trying a different method.
Interested in how you mounted it. My first one I didn't use the mounting plate, and got it to work, but making the mount seemed to be the better way. Post some pics when you get a chance.

Also my customer did not want a trip so that made my work a bit easier.

Now for my questions. I bought a gauge cluster for a 1996 S-10 from ebay. The high MPH on it is 100 MPH. Is this OK with the 120 stencil you provide? Will the speedometer actually work and be accurate over 100 MPH?
The S10 speedos are all 100mph. The reason for making the 67-72 speedo 120mph is to get the sweep to match. It should be accurate above 100mph since the sweep of the needle is linear in relation to the face/numbers. I have never checked it above 100 to be honest though. I have checked it to about 90mhp or so and it's pretty accurate.

My other question was regarding testing the speedometer without a VSS signal. I have heard if you put power and ground to it, it will move to zero regardless of where the needle is positioned. Is this true?
When you put power to the speedo, the needle will move to the 0mhp mark, you have to do this when putting the needle back on, or you may get the needle either too high or too low. Ideally, you want the needle to rest at 0mhp, with the needle just touching the little plastic stop.

I am trying to make sure I get this cluster built so that it will work for my customer. I may be able to find someone with a later model vehicle with VSS to test it on but I cannot say for sure at this time.
The only way I know to test it is to hook it up to a vehicle and run it. I have a 2003 Pontiac Sunfire that I use to test mine. I just unhook the cruise control module and put the wires in to the connector for power, ground, and VSS, it works great since then I not only get to see it work, I can verify how accurate it is by comparing it to the speedo in the car. If you can find a later modle GM car with a cable drive cruise control, that would be the easiest way to make sure it is going to be right on the money.

I will try to post some photos of my work soon. I had a camera mishap and don't care for my phone camera.

Hope you are well,

Take care,
Tom
Hey Tom, I answered your questions in the bold text. If you need anymore help, don't hesitate to ask.
__________________
My '72 short bed build. http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conver...6-0-4l80e.html

5.3 swap into my RUSTY '71 C10
http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversion...71-c-10-a.html
ls1nova71 is offline   Reply With Quote